Betta fish are known for being territorial, feisty, rather combative, and therefore not great tank mates in general. This reputation, however, only holds true in particular situations and with certain fish friends. Male betta fish are aggressive, but only with other male bettas, so it is important to never put two males in the same tank. It will lead to tail-nipping behavior and other aggressive actions. So, what fish can live with bettas?

Happily, there are several other fish that can keep your betta company in a safe and non-aggressive environment. Many colorful, friendly fish cohabitate well with bettas. This is our guide to finding the perfect fish companion (or companions) for your betta.

Fish that can live and get along with bettas

1. Cory catfish

You can get an idea of what these fish look like from their name alone. Cory catfish resemble miniature versions of your standard river-dwelling catfish. These creatures feature whiskers and wide-set eyes, so they are super fun and entertaining to watch. Cory catfish make great tank mates with betta fish, male or female.

Cories are calm and peaceful fish, which will encourage the same behavior in your betta. Their non-aggressive temperament is the perfect contrast against a spunky guy who is always ready to take on another male. Cory catfish are also a super popular addition to many freshwater tanks. They are easy to care for and come in a variety of sizes and colors.

These fish tend to enjoy the company of one or two other cory catfish so they can swim in a little school. Due to their popularity, cories are fairly easy to find at your local pet store or aquarium shop. No matter how many of these social fish you add to your tank, your betta fish will love their calm, social nature.

2. Guppies

A guppy has got you covered when it comes to adding color and pizazz to your tank. Guppies are small fish, typically ranging in size between 0.6 inches and 2.4 inches. These fish also have a peaceful temperament that puts your betta fish in a much more relaxed environment. Guppies come in a variety of colorings so you can really brighten up your tank with a few different varieties.

They are compatible with other fish as well, and their small size may put your betta at ease by making them not the smallest fish in the tank. Guppies are easy to take care of and love to live in groups so they can school together. They will be great tank mates to your betta because they won’t ever instigate fights due to their calm nature.

3. Harlequin rasbora

The harlequin rasbora makes the perfect tank mate with betta fish because they both live and survive in similar tank conditions, and they both enjoy snacking on brine shrimp. The rasbora grows to about 1.5 inches and hangs around for an average of five years. It’s also a peaceful fish species, which is another quality that makes it a good companion for betta fish, as it is unlikely there will be any hostility between the two fish.

4. Ember tetras

If you love the look of a bright, orange fish, then an ember tetra is the perfect addition to your tank. Ember tetras are small and will be super compatible with your betta. They have peaceful yet playful personalities that will encourage a calm relationship with your betta. These fish are simple to take care of, so you don’t have to worry about any extra cleaning or care. These easy-going swimmers will get along with nearly any other fish and will be a bright, fun addition to your tank.

5. Kuhli loaches

One fish that will surely make you do a double-take is the kuhli loach. Kuhli loaches have yellow and brown bands and are super interesting fish. They are long, small, and thin and can resemble the look of a snake. These fish are bottom dwellers and conveniently clean the bottom of your tank. Kuhli loaches are a great match for bettas. They have a shy personality and a peaceful temperament so they will coexist nicely with any male or female betta fish.

6. Platies

If you are new to owning fish, then the platy is a great one to start with. They are easy to care for and have a great temperament, making them a perfect tank mate for your betta fish. This type of fish is ideal for tank communities because they are very social. They can grow up to 3 inches in length and come in a variety of beautiful colors. Their colorings showcase unique designs and patterns, so you can mix and match them for a vivid, attractive tank. Non-aggressive and social, platies are perfect for any fish owner, especially beginners.

What size tank does a betta need?

Can male and female betta live together?

Tips and tricks for helping your fish get along

When introducing new fish to your tank, consider these tips:

• Make sure your tank is a suitable size for all the fish.
• Purchase your new fish from a reputable breeder or store.
• Clean your tank and check your water to make sure the environment is optimal for all fish.
• Use a plastic bag to acclimate your new fish to the water.
• Monitor how your betta and other fish interact once released. If conflicts arise or your betta spends too much time hiding, a community tank might not be right for that particular fish.

Bettas have a bad reputation for their aggressive behavior, but they are more misunderstood. These beautiful fish are actually super friendly with many species — just not their own. Luckily, your betta won’t have to live a lonely life. You can choose from a variety of stunning, playful fish that will be the perfect tank mate for your betta.

Ensure that you are choosing fish that you know how to care for and will coexist peacefully with your betta. You will love being able to give your betta some tank mates to hang out with.

Because baby birds are dependent on their parents not only for food but also for instructions on how to be a bird, it's best for the little one to stay with its parents. So, if you find a baby bird on the ground, try to bring it back to the nest rather than looking after it yourself. If you cannot return the bird to its nest, contact a rehabilitation center that can take care of it.

Sometimes you might have to jump in though, when raising domestic birds for example. Then it’s important to know how and what to feed baby birds — and sometimes, even learn how to make DIY baby bird food.

Consult the experts if you think a baby bird isn’t being fed

If you spot a baby bird that seems to be neglected, wait for an hour or two to see if its parents return to provide food again. Note that the mother bird only needs a few seconds to feed her baby, so inattentive observers could miss several feeding cycles.

If the parents are around, you can be sure that the baby has its needs met, and there is no unnecessary intervention, assuming the baby bird does not appear injured or sick. However, if you can confirm that it's orphaned or the nest has been abandoned, there are a few things you should do.

Step 1: The first step should be to find a licensed rehabilitator to provide, or guide you through, the appropriate care.

Step 2: Very rarely, you may be tasked with helping the baby bird even just until someone can come pick it up. In these circumstances you'll need to offer something similar to its natural diet. While each wild bird eats slightly different types of food, a few staples can serve as an emergency ration if necessary.

What to feed a baby bird

In nature, baby birds eat the same things that their parents eat: Worms, insects, fruit, and seeds. But the little ones have very different nutritional needs than adult birds, which is why the moms and dads chew it up first and spit back a meal high in protein.

Foods suitable for baby birds in your home include:

• Boiled eggs
• Moist dog food
• Wet cat food
• Raw liver (without seasoning)

What not to feed a baby bird

Unfortunately, it’s a common misconception that mixing together bread and milk makes for an ideal feed for baby birds. Unlike mammals, birds do not drink milk and their digestive systems won’t tolerate it. Milk can be toxic to birds, so avoid feeding it entirely.

Foods not suitable for baby birds in your home include:

• Water
• Milk
• Bread and bakery products
• Kitchen scraps

How to make DIY baby bird food

One easy recipe for feeding baby birds involves just two ingredients: pet food and water.

• Soaking dog biscuits or kibble in water will create a mushy consistency that’s easy to take and digest for young birds. This mimics the texture of the food given by mama birds in the wild and is also a high-protein option, which is extra important for nestlings.
• To forgo the mixing and mashing, a canned pet food like the Cesar brand is another great option. You still might want to stir in a tiny bit of water if your bird is particularly young, though.

How to feed a baby bird

Step 1: If you need to feed a wild baby bird, remember to offer foods that have a spongy consistency instead of dripping with water, which can suffocate or drown it. All dry food should be softened first.

Step 2: Food should only be offered at room temperature, never heated or refrigerated.

Step 3: Keep food pieces small and proportional to the size of the bird — tiny birds need tiny bites. Cut or crush food properly to fit the size of the bird.

Step 4: When feeding the bird, be as careful as possible to minimize the risk of additional stress or injury. Never force a bird to eat its food.

How can you tell how old a baby bird is?

You'll want to adjust your feeding habits depending on the baby bird's age, and that can be tricky to determine. First, look at the feathers and try to figure out if you see down or adult plumage or both. Next, listen to its bird calls — older birds make a stronger sound. Lastly, pay attention to their behavior and movement.

As the bird grows, it'll literally stretch its wings and hop around more. Here too it helps to know what species you have brought in so you can adjust your expectations accordingly. To put it more simply, a sparrow will leave the nest at just 3 weeks old while an eagle might stick around for up to 12 weeks with its parents (and while we're at it, eagles and other protected birds have special rules that you need to know before touching one).

Tips for feeding baby birds

There are a few more things you need to know before you can handle a baby bird successfully. Here are five tips to help you along your care journey.

• Research your avian and try to discover which foods its species prefers to guide your feedings.
• Once the bird grows up a bit (or if you find an older animal), you should offer whole food, like a bug or a seed, with tweezers.
• Always wash your hands before and after feeding, so you don't catch anything or contaminate the meal.
• Keep your new baby bird somewhere safe and quiet in between feedings, away from other pets.
• Look to rehome the little one as soon as possible into the hands of a professional.

Finally, remember that feeding a baby bird should be only an emergency measure. If one is abandoned and needs care, it should be taken by a bird-rescue organization or an experienced rehabilitator as soon as possible. They will both feed baby birds with a diet suitable for its type and also teach it to live independently, avoid predators, and master other skills to return to nature successfully.

How long do rabbits live?

Here’s a fun fact: The oldest rabbit that ever lived was 18 years old! By contrast, wild rabbits only live up to about three years, since many die very young. But there’s good news. In the absence of predators, pet rabbits have a life expectancy of eight to 12 years. Like dogs, larger breeds tend to have a shorter lifespan while smaller rabbits often live at least 10 years.

While there are more than 300 domestic rabbit breeds, some petite pet rabbit breeds include the Mini Lop, Mini Rex, Holland lop, English Angora, and Netherland dwarf. Other rabbits with long life expectancies include the American rabbit, Lionhead rabbit, and Harlequin rabbit. Of course, size alone doesn’t determine your pet rabbit’s life expectancy. A larger breed can live longer than a dwarf if you provide nutritious food, space to roam, regular social interactions, and mental stimulation.

Here are the important factors you need to know if you want to extend your pet rabbit’s life.

How can I extend my pet rabbit’s life expectancy?

Diet

Food is a crucial part of your pet’s life. Television might have convinced us that rabbits just need pet store pellets to stay healthy, but this is simply not the truth. Bunnies require hay or grass to chew on, as this constitutes the bulk of their diet. All this hay also helps grind down their teeth, which continuously grow as they get older. Incorporate different vegetables and leaves when possible to make up for missed nutrients. Lastly, make spare use of store-bought pellets. When you do supplement with pellets, opt for high fiber brands.

Exercise

Exercise needs to be part of your pet’s daily routine, so as to maintain a healthy weight for your rabbit. You might not have enough room for a backyard pen or coop, but make sure you let your rabbit free so they can get their hops in. Supervise them indoors to ensure they don’t get into anything troublesome — both for their sake and yours! Keep an eye out for open wires, crown molding, carpeting, and papers. Rabbits love to chew, nibble, and bite, so it’s best to keep important items out of the way.

Play

Mental stimulation is fundamental to a pet rabbit’s long-life expectancy. Whether it be a paper castle, chew toys, or old cardboard boxes, your pet rabbit will enjoy the engagement.

Other types of enrichment include socialization, opportunity for wandering in a new play area, and obstacle courses. You may consider bringing home a companion for your little companion. It’s recommended to have one neutered male and one spayed female of similar ages for the best chances of a successful friendship. This brings us to the next factor.

Spay/neuter

Spayed or neutered rabbits tend to live longer than their counterparts. Unfortunately, rabbits can develop reproductive organ cancer and other diseases. Take them to the vet for these procedures to help increase their lifespan. Additionally, this makes it easier for you to introduce different rabbits to each other for optimal socialization.

Rabbit care

It’s no surprise that stressed pet rabbits lead shorter lives than comfortable coneys. If you have other pets or young children in the home, your rabbit may feel overwhelmed. This is especially true if your pet or young children tend to be rowdy with or around your rabbit. If this is the case, keep your pet rabbit safely tucked away in another room or a higher elevation where they can eat, observe, and nibble in peace.

Medical care

Visit your vet regularly so it’s easier for you and your pet’s doctor to notice when something is amiss. Routine physical exams also help prevent diseases through early diagnosis. This way, when there is a problem with your pet, you and your vet can figure out a way to treat it as soon as possible.

Do rabbits get lonely and can that affect lifespan?

We said this earlier but it bears repeating: rabbits are social. That means they want company, both of their own kind and yours. While it’s essential to engage with your bunny daily, you can’t spend all of your time around your fuzzball. Many small pets do better with a friend, and rabbits are no exception. Remember that stimulating their brain can have almost as much impact as feeding them nutritious food. Anytime you add a pet, you need to ensure that your accommodations are sufficient — rabbits suffer when stuffed into a too small cage. But doubling up on your furry friends will extend their lifespans and keep them happy and entertained.

The bottom line is this: Your pet rabbit’s life expectancy can reach the double digits easily with the right food, housing situation, and living conditions. Rabbits are communal, playful, and curious so regular socialization, toys, and a place to explore are necessary to keep them happy. Keep our tips in mind as you take the next step and prepare for your pet rabbit’s homecoming.

When choosing the right pet for you, the first question you might ask is how many years of enjoyment you can expect from them. It is a great question, but the answer can vary depending on the animal. So how long do guinea pigs live? Read on for the answer — and how to help increase your little pig’s lifespan.

How long do guinea pigs live?

It is important to note that a guinea pig is not a hamster. A lot of pet owners do not know the difference and think these animals have similar life expectancies. However, they are actually quite different! There are several breeds of hamsters and this can affect how long they live, but a normal hamster can live for two to three years depending on how they are treated.

Guinea pigs, on the other hand, live much longer and grow to a much larger size. How long do guinea pigs live? The average lifespan for a domestic guinea pig is five to seven years, and there are many factors that can influence this. It is not uncommon for a guinea pig to live for nine or 10 years if exceptionally cared for. This means cavies require a long-term commitment on your part.

Ways to increase a guinea pig’s life expectancy

Fresh food: As with any living creature, providing your guinea pig with fresh food is one of the best ways to increase life expectancy. Make sure that uneaten food, like greens, is removed from the cage within 24 hours so your guinea pig doesn’t eat food that is no longer fresh.

Purchase a comfortable cage: Just like humans, guinea pigs like to be comfortable, too! A good recommendation is to provide at least 7.5 square feet for one guinea pig and 10 square feet of living space for two guinea pigs. The more space you provide them, the happier your guinea pigs will be.

Absorbent guinea pig bedding: Kiln-dried pine shavings, paper bedding, or fleece are a few suitable options to choose from. In addition, it is important to change guinea pigs’ bedding on a schedule so you can prevent odor or ammonia build-up. It is recommended that you change bedding at least once a week, but every three to four days is better.

Provide materials to chew on: In order to stay healthy, pigs need to keep their teeth ground down. Therefore, make sure that you buy your furry friend chew toys or pet-safe wood blocks.

Do not allow females to become pregnant: The pregnancy and birthing process is hard on female guinea pigs. In fact, one in five females that are bred will die as a result of complications during pregnancy or birth.

Locate a good veterinarian: It is important that you be proactive and find a good vet before your guinea pig has a medical issue. Even though guinea pigs do not require any vaccinations, it is recommended that you bring them to a veterinarian at least once a year.

Don’t mix pairs: Getting more than one guinea pig is a great way to increase longevity for guinea pigs. Just like humans, guineas are sociable and enjoy having a community around them. Nevertheless, make sure to keep guinea pigs of the same sex together or pairs that have already been spayed and neutered. As mentioned before, it is not good to have an unplanned guinea pig pregnancy in your household.

Can guinea pigs live alone if one dies?

As you can see, getting a guinea pig is a great option if you are looking for a pet with a life expectancy of five to 10 years. You play a role in your pet having a long, healthy life by giving your guinea pig a great house filled with nutritious food and lots of friends. Care for your guinea pig just like you would a young child and you will do fine as a guinea pig parent!

Just like all living beings, snakes need to catch some z’s to rest and restore themselves. According to new research, believe it or not, reptiles experience REM sleep and they even dream, just like humans. But how to tell if your snake is sleeping? It can be quite the challenge, since you won’t be able to rely on seeing your snake’s closed eyes as a sign. Instead, you’ll learn to look for other signs that could indicate your pet is napping.

Taking the time to learn these signs will allow you to properly care for your pet snake and will keep you both much safer, especially if you need to handle them and don’t want to inadvertently interrupt their snooze fest. Let’s take a look at some of the indicators that will let you know that your slithery friend is, indeed, fast asleep.

How to tell if your snake is sleeping

By carefully observing your snake, you can tell if they’re asleep or awake. The key is knowing which signs to look for, and knowing a bit about your snake’s behavior, too.

Snake breed

The type of snake you have may partially dictate when they go to sleep. Some snakes stay active during certain times of day, sleeping at other times.

Diurnal snakes, or snakes that are most active during the day, include hognosed snakes, racers, sipos, and patch-nosed snakes. In contrast, other types of snakes like broad-headed snakes and night snakes tend to stay up at night and sleep during the day. The problem is, some snake species, including rat snakes, can vary their routines depending on the time of year, so there’s really no knowing when they might decide to doze off.

While judging by your snake’s breed isn’t a foolproof way to tell whether he’s asleep, it can help give you an idea of what times of day your snake is likelier to take a nap.

Seasonal effects

The season can play a role in snake sleeping habits. Most snakes spend about 16 hours per day asleep. In the winter, that can climb to 20 hours.

Post-feeding nap

If your snake has recently eaten, they might be sleepier than usual. A big meal can make your snake drowsy, and they may rest 20 hours a day after a recent feeding.

Sleeping position

While awake and asleep look pretty much the same in snakes, there are a few clues to help you tell the difference. A sleeping snake will stay in one position for hours — though this is also the posture a snake can assume while hunting. Or you might notice that the constantly flicking snake tongue isn’t engaged in its usual activity, or that they don’t react when you open the top of their cage or otherwise move around the area.

How do you know if a snake is relaxed?

A relaxed snake might look a bit like a sleeping one. But if your slitherer is awake, you’ll likely see some movement when you watch long enough. While your pet is resting but not snoozing, you can pick him up — this is a great time to handle your animal and try to get him used to you.

Snakes enjoy climbing on humans if they have been properly socialized and will even form attachments to their owners. Assuming your reptile is relaxed while you hold him, he’ll gently move around. Remember, a hyper-focused snake is often waiting to strike. Watch out for the signs that he needs to be put down and left alone.

Do snakes hibernate?

To further complicate matters, snakes in cold climates undergo a period called brumation, which means that they decrease their activity during the winter to save energy. So in a nutshell, some snakes do hibernate. If your snake is in brumation, they may move around less than usual. They probably won’t eat during this time.

If you disturb a snake that’s in brumation, they may act startled and confused, but when you put them down again, they won’t stay active.

Do snakes have eyelids?

No, snakes don’t have eyelids, so they can’t close their eyes (interestingly, they can’t blink either). Instead, they have a brille on each eye, a layer of transparent scales that covers and protects the eyes. This means snakes sleep with their eyes open. Your snake might not get “shut-eye,” but they do sleep. So you’ll just need to look for other signs that your snake is snoozing.

Safely handling your snake

If you suspect your snake is sleeping, then you need to be careful in handling him. Picking up or disturbing a sleeping snake can startle him, and he might strike you in response. (Chances are, you’d be startled, too, and a bit irritated that someone woke you up from your nap.) Suddenly waking a sleeping snake can stress them out and won’t have a positive result for either of you.

The final word on snake naps

Instead, if you suspect your snake is sleeping, it’s best to let them alone and allow them to wake up on their own. You can try making some gentle noises or introducing strong-smelling food to their environment to prompt them to wake up. If possible, though, let your snake get their beauty rest and go back to handle them when they’re awake.

You may be jealous to learn that hamsters sleep up to 14 hours per day (wouldn’t that be nice?). But unlike humans, they don’t do it all in one fell swoop, instead waking and napping at many intervals throughout the day (and sometimes night). They’re also nocturnal, so you will likely see (or hear) them playing and running on the hamster wheel very late.

Luckily, with the right routine, you can still spend good quality time with your pet by timing it to fit both of your schedules. If you’re wondering why your hamster sleeps so much even for a rodent, it may be time to visit to the vet and see if there’s more to it.

Why does my hamster sleep so much?

While 12 to 14 hours is certainly a lot of Zs, hamsters don’t really sleep all the time. Part of the reason you feel that way is because your small pet probably spends many of your waking hours passed out since they love to stay up all night. These creatures also only wake up for small periods during the day to get some food. You could be catching them at all the wrong times. If you want to spend some time with your pet, go to him at dusk when he’ll be at his most active.

What does it mean when a hamster is sleeping a lot?

For the most part, spending much of the time asleep means that your hamster is a normal little guy who likes to snooze the day away. However, too much sleep should give you a hint that something might be off with him. For instance, he could have slipped into hibernation, which you don’t want. Usually, this happens when the cage temperature falls too far below optimum and a brisk cold has set in. This triggers hibernation in your pet, whose wild cousins need to sleep through the chilly months. You would likely see this when the room temp goes below 50 degrees but it can also be caused by drafts near the cage. Make sure your hamster is not too close to an air conditioning unit or fan.

Alternatively, if it’s plenty warm and your little creature is still oversleeping, he could have fallen ill. Hamsters are prone to colds and digestive issues that can cause them to want extra time abed. Look for other signs and symptoms that yours doesn’t feel well, like sneezing or diarrhea. Check him out closely, including his eating and pooping habits, and then call up your vet for further advice. She may want you to bring in a stool sample or she might need to run tests and blood work to determine the issue. Just as in humans, colds usually pass and your hamster will be back to staying up all night in no time. 

Why you shouldn’t wake a sleeping hamster?

No one likes to be woken from a deep sleep, and since your hamster snoozes much of the day, you could accidentally wake him with your daily noise. It’s best to keep him in an area of the house where the normal traffic of your morning won’t get him up and excited. On top of that, a startled hamster may bite, thinking you’re a predator rousing him from slumber.

Too much awake time during the day (when hamsters should rest peacefully) will also prevent a good deep sleep and cause stress. Hamsters get sick when they feel too much anxiety, so you don’t want your guy’s standard sleeping hours disturbed if that means he stays awake anxiously. 

Do hamsters like the dark?

Final thoughts on hamster sleep schedules

If you were wondering why your hamster sleeps so much, worry no more. It’s just part of hamsters’ DNA to doze while most predators are active and it’s too hot outside to search for nourishment. They prefer to come out at dusk, when it’s both safer and cooler, to hunt down seeds and puddles.

Don’t try to bend your hamster’s schedule too much to match yours. Instead, find common ground between you, like in the evening. You can take your hamster out of his cage and spend some time playing just after dinner and then provide numerous toys and exercise equipment at night to keep him entertained while you sleep.

When you picture an adorable pet, you probably don’t visualize an iguana. Reptiles aren’t generally considered the cutest of animals, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find a cuddly one. Whether you’re looking for a new buddy for yourself or for your lizard-obsessed kid, there’s a reptilian beast out there that will work great in your home.

With proper socialization, these guys can learn to be handled daily, some even by children. If you want a new pet that enjoys human company, consider one of the most affectionate slitherers — they’re the best reptile pets for handling.

Are reptiles high maintenance?

Not necessarily. One of the things that makes reptiles tricky is how foreign some of their needs are. Parrots, dogs, and humans often have similar requirements for food, exercise, warmth, and water. Since we’re all warm-blooded omnivores (for the most part), it feels natural to care for many of the animals we welcome into our homes.

Reptiles are totally different. You’ll have to think carefully about heating lamps, cool spots, gut loading, moisture levels, and skin shedding. So you only want to go down this path if you feel ready. That being said, with the right mindset, many lizards, snakes, and turtles make solid beginner pets (a few species don’t and we suggest holding off on those until you turn pro).

Do reptile pets love their owners?

Don’t take the thick skin at face value: You absolutely can bond with your reptilian pet. It might take a little extra time and effort because they don’t have as much breeding or socialization as dogs and cats. There are a few key steps you need to follow for the best results:

• Adopt your animal young. You want to bond as early as possible. Remember, unlike most mammals, reptiles often aren’t raised by parents, which means the adoption timeline is different.
• Use food as a motivator. This should ring true for every pet parent the world over. You’ll get to your scaly beast’s heart with snacks, just as you would a dog (or maybe even a human).
• Get used to each other. Many pets take to a particular person and these guys are no different. Seeing you every day will eventually sink in, but that doesn’t mean your snake will like every two-legger who walks in.

These are the best reptile pets for an affectionate home

No type of pet will work well for everyone, and you’ll be surprised how individual these animals can be, but we can give a few recs that will likely fit right into your family.

Bearded dragon

Typically known for being friendly and even enjoying being handled, bearded dragons can become close companions with their humans. As they get to know you, they’ll often learn to climb on your body and even ride around on your shoulders.

Bearded dragons can grow up to 24 inches long and live for up to 15 years. These friendly lizards are most active during the day, and they eat a diet of vegetables, plants, insects, and fruits. They are relatively easy to care for and train, and they are ideal for first-time reptile owners. Bearded dragons are not nocturnal, making them great pets to have around for daytime enjoyment.

Leopard gecko

Leopard geckos are known for their calm nature, which makes them easy to handle. Their small size, ranging from 7 to 10 inches long, adds to their manageability, and many will happily climb all over their owners. They typically live between six and 10 years in captivity.

Like other gecko breeds, leopard geckos can lose their tails if they’re injured and grow them back. They’re relatively simple pets and often do well in a 10-gallon aquarium. Females of the same size can be housed together, and because leopard geckos don’t have sticky feet, they can’t climb the sides of the tank.

These small pets are a good choice for first-time owners, making them one of the best reptile pets. Kids can handle them as long as someone supervises the children and warns them of the potential to harm the gecko’s tail.

Argentine black and white tegu

Sometimes called the giant tegu, this lizard can be an excellent pet. With proper socialization, tegus are friendly and social, and they can even be housebroken. Adults tend to be highly docile, and these lizards are smart, too. Keep in mind that if your tegu isn’t socialized, it can show aggressive behavior, so this is a pet to take on only if your schedule allows you to handle it regularly.

Tegus are larger lizards, and they’ll require a cage measuring at least 6 feet long. These reptiles can live for 15 to 20 years and can grow to be up to 3 feet long. They have powerful tails, which are used as weapons in a fight. They eat a diet of meat, vegetables, and fruits, and because of their size, they require significantly more food than a group of smaller reptiles with a shorter life span.

A tegu can be a great pet for a family with older children who are carefully supervised when handling the lizard. This big lizard will do best with frequent socialization and interaction. These needs, paired with its increased care requirements, make it suitable only for an owner who is dedicated to the time and financial investment this pet will require.

Chinese water dragon

Chinese water dragons are typically easy to tame, and they can be social and laid-back. They’re a friendlier alternative to the iguana, and when fully grown, they measure between two and three feet long. They also have a 10- to 15-year life expectancy, making them a great option for a reptile fan who can commit long-term to a pet’s care.

While Chinese water dragons may be friendly, they aren’t ideal for first-time reptile owners. They have complex care needs, including a minimum 6-foot-tall enclosure, UVB lighting, a precise temperature and humidity range, and a diet that includes some live foods like crickets and mealworms. Chinese water dragons do best when housed alone, since same-sex adults can fight. As a result, they’re perfect for avid, experienced reptile owners who have plenty of space and time to dedicate to their care.

Corn snake

Corn snakes are ideal for new pet owners, thanks to their docile and friendly nature. These snakes grow to be large enough to be handled regularly, even by kids, but because they don’t get over 6 feet long, they won’t overwhelm new snake owners. Their gorgeous colors and availability at most pet shops make them popular, too.

Corn snakes are also relatively easy to care for. Smaller snakes do well in a 20-gallon aquarium, and they can live into their 20s. These snakes don’t require any special lighting, and their diet consists mainly of mice.

Your pet corn snake may be nervous about being approached at first, but careful, quiet, and frequent handling can help them learn to be touched without protest. They’re a good choice for older children who want a snake, or for entire families who want to get their first reptile.

Choosing the right reptile

When choosing the right reptile for your home, do some thorough research into the care requirements. Remember that even if you choose one of these most affectionate reptiles, you’ll still need to socialize your pet so that it learns to be friendly toward people. Reptiles can have very specific care needs when it comes to diet, habitat, and even the temperature and humidity of their enclosure, so be prepared to meet these before you bring home a new pet.

Good news, aquarium hobbyists: Yes, you can keep seahorses as pets. Seahorses are very entertaining fish to watch. In fact, they are one of only two fish that swim upright. Also, unlike most of the animal kingdom, male seahorses hold the eggs until they hatch. These swimmers are quite interesting creatures, and if you’re interested in having a pet seahorse, read ahead to learn about what that entails.

What is so unique about the seahorse?

As discussed, there are a few things that make these creatures stand out from the crowd. For starters, it seems like they do actually stand up because they swim vertically and lack pelvic fins. It’s in part because of this that they swim so slowly and sometimes — yes we’ll say it — badly.

In the wild, they struggle to evade predators, though your pet will hopefully not need to worry about that. You may also notice that their eyes move independently, and they’re extremely dextrous. Lastly, seahorses mate for life. It must work out well to have the fathers take on so much parenting!

The best habitat for your pet seahorse

First and foremost, remember that seahorses can only live in saltwater, meaning you must maintain a saltwater aquarium to house them.

• Salinity: This water needs to have a salinity, or amount of salt, close to that of the ocean. The salinity of the ocean is usually between 34 to 37 parts per 1,000 units of water. You must check the salinity of a saltwater aquarium daily by measuring it with a hydrometer or refractometer. Water will gradually evaporate from any aquarium, leaving salt behind. That means to adjust the salinity of your aquarium, you will need to add fresh water to dilute the residual salt.
• Temperature: As pets, seahorses are known to be finicky and require particular conditions to thrive in. Among these is the temperature of their water, which must be kept between 70 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit — somewhat colder than most other fish prefer.
• Maintenance: You will have to do a partial water change every week or so, at least for the first few months after it has been set up. To switch out saltwater, you must make your own saltwater or sterilize “wild” seawater with a UV light. Saltwater aquariums also require special filters, daily pH testing, and regular algae scrubbing. Again, seahorses have even stricter water condition requirements than your average fish, including a particular water flow rate.

The best tankmates for your pet seahorse

Seahorses do best in groups and can be frightened by fast or aggressive fish like triggerfish or tangs. If you keep them with other fish, choose docile and slow species such as the goby. Seahorses can also coexist with bottom-dwelling sea creatures, including snails and shrimp. You should not keep corals and seahorses in the same tank, as seahorses may injure themselves on the corals.

These swimmers are prone to becoming stressed in aquariums and should be given a peaceful and spacious environment to live in. Remember that they prefer a colder environment than a lot of other fish, so take that into account before getting any tankmates.

The best diet for your pet seahorse

Seahorses eat quite a lot and must be fed every single day. They will primarily munch on fresh shrimp or shrimp brine, which should be supplemented with frozen mysis. Because seahorses are messy eaters and consume high-protein, high-fat foods and do not digest them completely, you will find a lot of leftover food and seahorse waste in their aquarium. However, seahorses do best in very clean water. An excellent water filter and frequent tank cleanings are paramount for this reason.

Know before you buy pet seahorses

• You should never take a seahorse from the wild. Buy only from reputable breeders who have been known to successfully raise captive seahorses. Seahorses raised in captivity are more expensive than wild seahorses. Captive-bred seahorses are less prone to diseases and stress than their wild counterparts and will take frozen foods in addition to fresh ones.
• Seahorses are not recommended as a fish for beginners. Prior to purchasing seahorses, you should already have their aquarium set up. You also need the necessary tool for maintaining a saltwater aquarium and an adequate supply of seahorse food on hand. Consider joining a local or online aquarist club to learn about keeping seahorses from those who have experience.

Seahorses are pretty and unique, but they do require a big commitment. They also make relatively good pets if you have the experience and supplies necessary to properly take care of them. If you’ve been debating whether or not to get a seahorse for your aquarium, do your research before making a quick decision. And if you do end up getting a seahorse, enjoy your new pet!

Start with observation

Before you start to potty train your hamster, take a look at their care and identify your pet’s potty spot. You should be able to find a corner where your hamster already goes to the bathroom. This is where you’ll notice an accumulation of pee and droppings, and it’s the place where you’ll want to put your hamster’s litter box.

If your hamster has a very large cage, chances are they have more than one toilet area in their mansion. But don’t worry, you just have to place a litter box in each of those spots. Like we mentioned, hamsters are very smart and clean. Your little gnawer will probably find the potties and use them.

Get the right equipment

Once you know your hamster’s favorite spots, all you’ll need is a litter box and litter to start your potty-training adventure. Some commercial litter boxes include a cover to keep the smell inside. Others are corner pans that save space in your hamster’s cage. Both work well, it’s just a matter of personal preference.

You can also make your own hamster litter box from items that you have at home. A sturdy plastic container with a lid can turn into a litter box if you make a 2- to 3-inch hole and sand it down. If you prefer to use glass, a 1/2-pint mason jar can make a chew-proof potty that’s easy to clean and looks great.

What litter to use

If your pet store carries more than one type of hamster litter, you may be wondering which type to use. The most important thing is to make sure your hamster’s litter is dust-free, unscented, and non-clumping.

Pellet litter is a more eco-friendly option that’s good for the environment and for your furry friend. Made of wood, paper, grain, or grass, pelleted litter offers superior odor control and great absorption. While it doesn’t scoop up as easily as traditional litter, many hamster parents find it’s worth the extra work.

Setup and training

Once you have all the potty-training supplies and know where your hamster’s litter box will go, the training portion should be easy:

Step 1: Place the litter box in the designated spot.

Step 2: Pour in enough litter to cover the bottom of the pan.

Step 3: Add a little bit of soiled bedding and a few droppings. The scent will guide your furry friend to their new bathroom.

Step 4: When your hamster wakes up, place him at the litter box. They’ll probably be curious about it and sniff around. They might surprise you and use it right away!

Step 5: If the hamster doesn’t enter the potty on their own, don’t force them in. This will discourage them. Just let them explore at their own pace. They should eventually figure it out on their own.

Do hamsters make your room smell?

While these cuties bring us lots of joy and constitute a low maintenance pet, they can come with a bit of a stink. First, we want to acknowledge that under ideal circumstances, your little pet's cage shouldn't smell. If it does, that generally means the housing is too small or you aren't cleaning regularly enough. However, adding a litter can make a huge difference because it means all the mess stays in one place. While it won't reduce the number of cleans, it should make them go a bit quicker. You can pull out the litter easily and wash it or even put it through the dishwasher, depending on what kind you buy. That will help keep any smells away.

Common problems

If your hamster doesn’t use the litter box within a few days, there may be a few reasons why:

• Does your hamster have a sleeping area? If they’re using their litter box as a bed, it’s probably because they don’t have a separate sleeping nook or hideout.
• Does your hamster have enough food-hiding spots? If your little pal is using the potty to hide their food, it means that their cage is too small.
• Is your hamster eating the litter? Some types of litter can scratch their cheek pouches and include hazardous ingredients like silica. If your little friend is eating the litter, change it right away and make sure their cage is large enough.

Small cages cause anxiety in hamsters and create behaviors such as gnawing plastic or eating litter. To ensure your hamster’s well-being, make sure their cage is big enough for a litter box, wheel, hideout, and food storage.

In most cases, potty training your hamster is effortless. Hamsters love keeping themselves and their cages clean. With a litter box, you don’t have to change your hamster’s bedding as often and their home is as tidy as they like it. Adding a potty to your furry friend’s home is the best way to make them happy and avoid unwanted smells. It’s a win-win situation!

Before you set up your first tank, you likely didn’t realize how much work went into maintaining the perfect ecosystem. In nature, we have the checks and balances of evolution to guide the delicate balance, but in an aquarium, it’s just you. Learning how to clean, feed, and decorate takes time and research but will certainly benefit you — and your swimmers — in the end.

Since fish can’t tell you what they feel or even bark to let you know they need something, you’ll need to discover other cues to tell you something’s up. If you find your fish swimming at the top of the tank, take action right away. Here’s what to do when your fish spend too much time at the surface.

What does it mean when your fish swim to the top?

Usually, your fish go to the surface when they’re not getting enough oxygen. Unlike you, fish use their gills to breathe the air that’s already in the water. However, in some circumstances, there’s not enough oxygen in the tank for all the fish to breathe easily. To combat this, they swim up to the surface, where there is oxygen-rich water. You may notice some gasping or other signs of stress while they are up there. 

Why is my fish floating at the top of the tank but not dead?

How do you oxygenate a fish tank?

What to do when fish stay at the top of the tank

While it’s fairly serious if your tank-dwellers can’t breathe well, there are a few steps you can take to fix the problem straight away. You might also need to rethink your setup, once the initial emergency has passed.

Do a water test

You should be performing water tests regularly, including every time you change out some of the water. It’s important to check nitrates, pH levels, and ammonia to see if anything is out of whack. This usually happens when you’ve got a bigger issue in the aquarium, such as too many fish. It could also be a sign that you’re overfeeding and the excess food is rotting at the bottom. You may need to take quick action with a partial water replacement and use conditioners to help bring your chemical levels down. In the long term, you’ll have to find a way to reduce waste; usually feeding less will do the trick. Also, look into adding live plants which will produce oxygen and remove excess nitrogen compounds naturally. 

Check the filter

Your filter will help to remove some of the waste from your tank, though frequent cleaning and water changes are still very important. Add more elements (such as a bubbler) to increase the levels of oxygen, permitting the fish to breathe more easily. Examine your filter for any breaks and replace sponges or other old pieces. Lastly, make sure your filter system is big enough for your tank. You may need to purchase a larger one if you’ve recently added fish.

Install a thermometer

Yup, you read that right. Water temperature makes a big difference to the oxygen level in your fish tank because cold water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water. That means you need to be particularly careful when the room temperature rises, either because of summer or your tank heater. You should track the climate all the time anyway to ensure it stays consistent.

If your fish are congregating at the top and you notice an uptick in degrees, try cooling the room or turning down any heat sources. You don’t want to make sudden, drastic changes though. Adjust the temperature incrementally so as not to shock your fish, and never let the water temperature fall below the recommended range. Move the tank if necessary, especially to provide better ventilation.

The bottom line on fish tanks

It can be tempting to dive into this hobby head-first and then wind up in deeper than you expected, but with a lot of care and a little bit of research, you will find yourself better prepared to look after your little scaled pals and know what to do should a problem arise.