How long do rabbits live?

Here’s a fun fact: The oldest rabbit that ever lived was 18 years old! By contrast, wild rabbits only live up to about three years, since many die very young. But there’s good news. In the absence of predators, pet rabbits have a life expectancy of eight to 12 years. Like dogs, larger breeds tend to have a shorter lifespan while smaller rabbits often live at least 10 years.

While there are more than 300 domestic rabbit breeds, some petite pet rabbit breeds include the Mini Lop, Mini Rex, Holland lop, English Angora, and Netherland dwarf. Other rabbits with long life expectancies include the American rabbit, Lionhead rabbit, and Harlequin rabbit. Of course, size alone doesn’t determine your pet rabbit’s life expectancy. A larger breed can live longer than a dwarf if you provide nutritious food, space to roam, regular social interactions, and mental stimulation.

Here are the important factors you need to know if you want to extend your pet rabbit’s life.

How can I extend my pet rabbit’s life expectancy?

Diet

Food is a crucial part of your pet’s life. Television might have convinced us that rabbits just need pet store pellets to stay healthy, but this is simply not the truth. Bunnies require hay or grass to chew on, as this constitutes the bulk of their diet. All this hay also helps grind down their teeth, which continuously grow as they get older. Incorporate different vegetables and leaves when possible to make up for missed nutrients. Lastly, make spare use of store-bought pellets. When you do supplement with pellets, opt for high fiber brands.

Exercise

Exercise needs to be part of your pet’s daily routine, so as to maintain a healthy weight for your rabbit. You might not have enough room for a backyard pen or coop, but make sure you let your rabbit free so they can get their hops in. Supervise them indoors to ensure they don’t get into anything troublesome — both for their sake and yours! Keep an eye out for open wires, crown molding, carpeting, and papers. Rabbits love to chew, nibble, and bite, so it’s best to keep important items out of the way.

Play

Mental stimulation is fundamental to a pet rabbit’s long-life expectancy. Whether it be a paper castle, chew toys, or old cardboard boxes, your pet rabbit will enjoy the engagement.

Other types of enrichment include socialization, opportunity for wandering in a new play area, and obstacle courses. You may consider bringing home a companion for your little companion. It’s recommended to have one neutered male and one spayed female of similar ages for the best chances of a successful friendship. This brings us to the next factor.

Spay/neuter

Spayed or neutered rabbits tend to live longer than their counterparts. Unfortunately, rabbits can develop reproductive organ cancer and other diseases. Take them to the vet for these procedures to help increase their lifespan. Additionally, this makes it easier for you to introduce different rabbits to each other for optimal socialization.

Rabbit care

It’s no surprise that stressed pet rabbits lead shorter lives than comfortable coneys. If you have other pets or young children in the home, your rabbit may feel overwhelmed. This is especially true if your pet or young children tend to be rowdy with or around your rabbit. If this is the case, keep your pet rabbit safely tucked away in another room or a higher elevation where they can eat, observe, and nibble in peace.

Medical care

Visit your vet regularly so it’s easier for you and your pet’s doctor to notice when something is amiss. Routine physical exams also help prevent diseases through early diagnosis. This way, when there is a problem with your pet, you and your vet can figure out a way to treat it as soon as possible.

Do rabbits get lonely and can that affect lifespan?

We said this earlier but it bears repeating: rabbits are social. That means they want company, both of their own kind and yours. While it’s essential to engage with your bunny daily, you can’t spend all of your time around your fuzzball. Many small pets do better with a friend, and rabbits are no exception. Remember that stimulating their brain can have almost as much impact as feeding them nutritious food. Anytime you add a pet, you need to ensure that your accommodations are sufficient — rabbits suffer when stuffed into a too small cage. But doubling up on your furry friends will extend their lifespans and keep them happy and entertained.

The bottom line is this: Your pet rabbit’s life expectancy can reach the double digits easily with the right food, housing situation, and living conditions. Rabbits are communal, playful, and curious so regular socialization, toys, and a place to explore are necessary to keep them happy. Keep our tips in mind as you take the next step and prepare for your pet rabbit’s homecoming.

When choosing the right pet for you, the first question you might ask is how many years of enjoyment you can expect from them. It is a great question, but the answer can vary depending on the animal. So how long do guinea pigs live? Read on for the answer — and how to help increase your little pig’s lifespan.

How long do guinea pigs live?

It is important to note that a guinea pig is not a hamster. A lot of pet owners do not know the difference and think these animals have similar life expectancies. However, they are actually quite different! There are several breeds of hamsters and this can affect how long they live, but a normal hamster can live for two to three years depending on how they are treated.

Guinea pigs, on the other hand, live much longer and grow to a much larger size. How long do guinea pigs live? The average lifespan for a domestic guinea pig is five to seven years, and there are many factors that can influence this. It is not uncommon for a guinea pig to live for nine or 10 years if exceptionally cared for. This means cavies require a long-term commitment on your part.

Ways to increase a guinea pig’s life expectancy

Fresh food: As with any living creature, providing your guinea pig with fresh food is one of the best ways to increase life expectancy. Make sure that uneaten food, like greens, is removed from the cage within 24 hours so your guinea pig doesn’t eat food that is no longer fresh.

Purchase a comfortable cage: Just like humans, guinea pigs like to be comfortable, too! A good recommendation is to provide at least 7.5 square feet for one guinea pig and 10 square feet of living space for two guinea pigs. The more space you provide them, the happier your guinea pigs will be.

Absorbent guinea pig bedding: Kiln-dried pine shavings, paper bedding, or fleece are a few suitable options to choose from. In addition, it is important to change guinea pigs’ bedding on a schedule so you can prevent odor or ammonia build-up. It is recommended that you change bedding at least once a week, but every three to four days is better.

Provide materials to chew on: In order to stay healthy, pigs need to keep their teeth ground down. Therefore, make sure that you buy your furry friend chew toys or pet-safe wood blocks.

Do not allow females to become pregnant: The pregnancy and birthing process is hard on female guinea pigs. In fact, one in five females that are bred will die as a result of complications during pregnancy or birth.

Locate a good veterinarian: It is important that you be proactive and find a good vet before your guinea pig has a medical issue. Even though guinea pigs do not require any vaccinations, it is recommended that you bring them to a veterinarian at least once a year.

Don’t mix pairs: Getting more than one guinea pig is a great way to increase longevity for guinea pigs. Just like humans, guineas are sociable and enjoy having a community around them. Nevertheless, make sure to keep guinea pigs of the same sex together or pairs that have already been spayed and neutered. As mentioned before, it is not good to have an unplanned guinea pig pregnancy in your household.

Can guinea pigs live alone if one dies?

As you can see, getting a guinea pig is a great option if you are looking for a pet with a life expectancy of five to 10 years. You play a role in your pet having a long, healthy life by giving your guinea pig a great house filled with nutritious food and lots of friends. Care for your guinea pig just like you would a young child and you will do fine as a guinea pig parent!

You may be jealous to learn that hamsters sleep up to 14 hours per day (wouldn’t that be nice?). But unlike humans, they don’t do it all in one fell swoop, instead waking and napping at many intervals throughout the day (and sometimes night). They’re also nocturnal, so you will likely see (or hear) them playing and running on the hamster wheel very late.

Luckily, with the right routine, you can still spend good quality time with your pet by timing it to fit both of your schedules. If you’re wondering why your hamster sleeps so much even for a rodent, it may be time to visit to the vet and see if there’s more to it.

Why does my hamster sleep so much?

While 12 to 14 hours is certainly a lot of Zs, hamsters don’t really sleep all the time. Part of the reason you feel that way is because your small pet probably spends many of your waking hours passed out since they love to stay up all night. These creatures also only wake up for small periods during the day to get some food. You could be catching them at all the wrong times. If you want to spend some time with your pet, go to him at dusk when he’ll be at his most active.

What does it mean when a hamster is sleeping a lot?

For the most part, spending much of the time asleep means that your hamster is a normal little guy who likes to snooze the day away. However, too much sleep should give you a hint that something might be off with him. For instance, he could have slipped into hibernation, which you don’t want. Usually, this happens when the cage temperature falls too far below optimum and a brisk cold has set in. This triggers hibernation in your pet, whose wild cousins need to sleep through the chilly months. You would likely see this when the room temp goes below 50 degrees but it can also be caused by drafts near the cage. Make sure your hamster is not too close to an air conditioning unit or fan.

Alternatively, if it’s plenty warm and your little creature is still oversleeping, he could have fallen ill. Hamsters are prone to colds and digestive issues that can cause them to want extra time abed. Look for other signs and symptoms that yours doesn’t feel well, like sneezing or diarrhea. Check him out closely, including his eating and pooping habits, and then call up your vet for further advice. She may want you to bring in a stool sample or she might need to run tests and blood work to determine the issue. Just as in humans, colds usually pass and your hamster will be back to staying up all night in no time. 

Why you shouldn’t wake a sleeping hamster?

No one likes to be woken from a deep sleep, and since your hamster snoozes much of the day, you could accidentally wake him with your daily noise. It’s best to keep him in an area of the house where the normal traffic of your morning won’t get him up and excited. On top of that, a startled hamster may bite, thinking you’re a predator rousing him from slumber.

Too much awake time during the day (when hamsters should rest peacefully) will also prevent a good deep sleep and cause stress. Hamsters get sick when they feel too much anxiety, so you don’t want your guy’s standard sleeping hours disturbed if that means he stays awake anxiously. 

Do hamsters like the dark?

Final thoughts on hamster sleep schedules

If you were wondering why your hamster sleeps so much, worry no more. It’s just part of hamsters’ DNA to doze while most predators are active and it’s too hot outside to search for nourishment. They prefer to come out at dusk, when it’s both safer and cooler, to hunt down seeds and puddles.

Don’t try to bend your hamster’s schedule too much to match yours. Instead, find common ground between you, like in the evening. You can take your hamster out of his cage and spend some time playing just after dinner and then provide numerous toys and exercise equipment at night to keep him entertained while you sleep.

Start with observation

Before you start to potty train your hamster, take a look at their care and identify your pet’s potty spot. You should be able to find a corner where your hamster already goes to the bathroom. This is where you’ll notice an accumulation of pee and droppings, and it’s the place where you’ll want to put your hamster’s litter box.

If your hamster has a very large cage, chances are they have more than one toilet area in their mansion. But don’t worry, you just have to place a litter box in each of those spots. Like we mentioned, hamsters are very smart and clean. Your little gnawer will probably find the potties and use them.

Get the right equipment

Once you know your hamster’s favorite spots, all you’ll need is a litter box and litter to start your potty-training adventure. Some commercial litter boxes include a cover to keep the smell inside. Others are corner pans that save space in your hamster’s cage. Both work well, it’s just a matter of personal preference.

You can also make your own hamster litter box from items that you have at home. A sturdy plastic container with a lid can turn into a litter box if you make a 2- to 3-inch hole and sand it down. If you prefer to use glass, a 1/2-pint mason jar can make a chew-proof potty that’s easy to clean and looks great.

What litter to use

If your pet store carries more than one type of hamster litter, you may be wondering which type to use. The most important thing is to make sure your hamster’s litter is dust-free, unscented, and non-clumping.

Pellet litter is a more eco-friendly option that’s good for the environment and for your furry friend. Made of wood, paper, grain, or grass, pelleted litter offers superior odor control and great absorption. While it doesn’t scoop up as easily as traditional litter, many hamster parents find it’s worth the extra work.

Setup and training

Once you have all the potty-training supplies and know where your hamster’s litter box will go, the training portion should be easy:

Step 1: Place the litter box in the designated spot.

Step 2: Pour in enough litter to cover the bottom of the pan.

Step 3: Add a little bit of soiled bedding and a few droppings. The scent will guide your furry friend to their new bathroom.

Step 4: When your hamster wakes up, place him at the litter box. They’ll probably be curious about it and sniff around. They might surprise you and use it right away!

Step 5: If the hamster doesn’t enter the potty on their own, don’t force them in. This will discourage them. Just let them explore at their own pace. They should eventually figure it out on their own.

Do hamsters make your room smell?

While these cuties bring us lots of joy and constitute a low maintenance pet, they can come with a bit of a stink. First, we want to acknowledge that under ideal circumstances, your little pet's cage shouldn't smell. If it does, that generally means the housing is too small or you aren't cleaning regularly enough. However, adding a litter can make a huge difference because it means all the mess stays in one place. While it won't reduce the number of cleans, it should make them go a bit quicker. You can pull out the litter easily and wash it or even put it through the dishwasher, depending on what kind you buy. That will help keep any smells away.

Common problems

If your hamster doesn’t use the litter box within a few days, there may be a few reasons why:

• Does your hamster have a sleeping area? If they’re using their litter box as a bed, it’s probably because they don’t have a separate sleeping nook or hideout.
• Does your hamster have enough food-hiding spots? If your little pal is using the potty to hide their food, it means that their cage is too small.
• Is your hamster eating the litter? Some types of litter can scratch their cheek pouches and include hazardous ingredients like silica. If your little friend is eating the litter, change it right away and make sure their cage is large enough.

Small cages cause anxiety in hamsters and create behaviors such as gnawing plastic or eating litter. To ensure your hamster’s well-being, make sure their cage is big enough for a litter box, wheel, hideout, and food storage.

In most cases, potty training your hamster is effortless. Hamsters love keeping themselves and their cages clean. With a litter box, you don’t have to change your hamster’s bedding as often and their home is as tidy as they like it. Adding a potty to your furry friend’s home is the best way to make them happy and avoid unwanted smells. It’s a win-win situation!

Do rabbits clean themselves?

Like feline pets, rabbits groom themselves with their tongues. First, they’ll lick their paws and use these spit-slick “brushes” to clean other body parts. This helps get rid of shedding fur, dirt, and other surface-level messes. Sounds inefficient? Don’t worry — rabbits have been using this method since the dawn of time, and frankly, it’s simple, but it works.

Moreover, rabbits clean themselves constantly. Like, all day constantly. Your rabbit can handle cleaning himself for the most part, unless he's not feeling well. In this case, a visit to the vet might be the answer — which brings us to our next point.

Is it safe to bathe my pet rabbit?

The short answer is no, it’s not safe to bathe your pet rabbit in a tub full of water. If your rabbit has stopped grooming themselves, don’t resort to a bubble bath, no matter how warm the water feels. In general, the risks that come with bathing a bunny far outweigh the possible benefits.

For instance, according to Rabbit Welfare UK, rabbits may feel unsafe and end up panicking in the water, which can result in several stressful injuries for you and your pet. Bathing-related stress has even been linked to the death of a few pets. Additionally, their fur is notoriously hard to dry, so your pet may be vulnerable to hypothermia or respiratory illnesses if left wet, or even damp.

Still, there are a few instances when your vet may recommend that you wash your rabbit — typically if your bunny has an especially dirty behind! Most likely, a spot wash is all you’ll need, though your vet can provide a prescription shampoo for particularly sensitive areas. Always ask your vet for a shampoo recommendation for your rabbit, as even other pet shampoos are not necessarily safe for your bunny (via Rabbit.org).

Spot cleaning your bunny: A safer option

Spot cleaning lets you clean your rabbit without exposing him to the dangers of a bath. When you do this, you’re cleaning only a specific part of his body, eliminating the risk of both hypothermia and shock-related symptoms.

Step 1: Sit your bunny in a small tub for washing — your bathtub will work or a bucket with holes in the bottom to allow enough drainage for your bunny to stay comfy.

Step 2: Don't submerge him in water. To spot clean your rabbit’s leg, for example, you could dunk just his leg into room-temperature or slightly warm water.

Step 3: Once dunking your rabbit's leg into room-temperature water, rub in a rabbit-safe or vet-approved shampoo.

Step 4: Gently rinse the leg with the aid of a small dish (via Omlet). No running water, please! It could be too loud and powerful for a lot of rabbits.

What is a rabbit butt-bath?

You'll start with a similar set up, but focus on your pet's bottom instead of another body part. This area is tricky because his poop can get stuck on his bum and cause problems. Pay close attention to your bunny's grooming routine and check his behind periodically then give him a butt-bath as needed. Elderly and sick rabbits are more likely to need grooming here since they can't necessarily do it themselves.

Step 1: Set up your tub with some warm water, just a couple inches, and have your supplies ready.

Step 2: Dunk your rabbit's behind into the water and soak him until the poop and matted fur comes off.

Step 3: Use a gloved hand as necessary to remove any last soiled bits.

Step 4: Pull your bunny out and dry him off quickly. You can pat him down with a towel to start, but don't be afraid to reach for a hair dryer (on a cool setting) if that helps.

How do I get rid of my pet rabbit’s smell?

Here are a few steps to help you get rid of unwanted smells from your bunny.

Step 1: Apply cornstarch baby powder to your rabbit's fur.

Step 2: If the smell doesn't go away, use some pet towelettes to refresh areas. Pet-safe towelettes prevent sensitivity to potentially harmful ingredients.

Step 3: If the smell still isn’t letting up, you might need to clean his cage to remove any yucky odors that are sticking to your pet rabbit.

Step 4: Is a clean cage not doing the trick? Your pet rabbit might need his scent glands cleaned. Two of these glands are located around his bottom and they release some undesirable odors when not properly discharged. Use a cotton swab dipped in warm water to clean the glands around your rabbit’s private area. The excretion is typically brown and easy to spot. This simple hygiene routine should significantly reduce any unpleasant smells.

How do I groom my pet rabbit?

The average pet rabbit molts two to three times a year. During this phase, they’ll shed tons of fur. In an attempt to speed up the process and to keep themselves clean, rabbits might groom themselves even more during this molting. Even on a regular day, your rabbit will lose significant amounts of hair.

Step 1: Brush the fur at least once a week even if your rabbit isn't molting. This helps prevent any dangerously large hairballs from forming in your pet's stomach, and it helps the molting process go more smoothly.

Step 2: On the other hand, long-haired rabbits need haircuts and trims to keep their beautiful coat healthy. Again, this also reduces hairballs in their stomachs.

How do I trim my pet rabbit’s nails?

Pet rabbits need nail trims to keep them from getting too long and hurting themselves, you, or other pets. Purchase a rabbit-specific nail trimmer for this task. Check your rabbit’s nails regularly and trim them about once a month or whenever necessary.

Declawing is not recommended for rabbits because they use their nails to move around properly. If you’re nervous about trimming your rabbit’s nails, ask a professional groomer or your vet to demonstrate it a few times until you feel comfortable. They’ll show you great tips like how to hold your pet correctly during the task.

How else can I properly clean my pet rabbit and keep them that way?

Other body parts to keep clean are your rabbit’s ears, eyes, and teeth. Repeat these tasks regularly, and your pet rabbit should stay thoroughly clean.

Step 1: Use a cotton swab to wipe away ear wax and apply a gentle cleaner if necessary.

Step 2: For sleep in your rabbit’s eyes, use a cloth or tissue to wipe it away. Medicated drops might be necessary for some conditions, but always double-check with a vet.

Step 3: Give your rabbit enough treats, such as boards and twigs, to keep his teeth a healthy size. These chew toys wear down your pet’s teeth, which is super important since their teeth grow continuously!

Your pet rabbit is a delicate creature that needs your full care and attention. Luckily, we’ve reviewed some essential grooming routines on how to clean your rabbit, such as brushing his fur, giving him dry baths, and trimming his nails to keep your pet properly clean. One last thing we’ll repeat is to keep the cage and/or the sleeping area clean. Fresh, pellet-free bedding always makes for a cleaner, happier rabbit.

Sharing a meal brings us closer to other humans and to our pets. It’s fun to break out the snacks and cut a carrot in half — half for you and half for your small creature. Many of the little guys, such as guinea pigs, rely on these foods as part of a balanced diet.

Guinea pigs are herbivores that love to munch on a variety of plants, including fruits. Too much of one thing, though, will throw off their diet, and you need to be careful not to give your rodent anything they can’t digest. These guys have naturally delicate systems, so be careful before you reach for just anything in your kitchen. Can guinea pigs eat apples? Certainly, if they’re prepared properly. 

What should you feed your guinea pig?

Your guinea’s diet must consist of three major food groups: hay, commercial pellets, and fruits and veggies. The most important element is the hay, which should be kept in the cage at all times. That means you need to continue to replace it as he eats it up or when it gets dirty.

Additionally, you want to supplement the hay with yummy fruits and veggies. In fact, you should provide approximately one cup of leafy greens to your pig every day (and that’s each pig, so two cups total for a pair). Additionally, they can have treats like blueberries, apples, and kiwi. Just as you would not live off of cake, so too, your pet shouldn’t have too much sweet fruit. 

How often can you give them treats?

While green veggies like parsley, dark lettuce, and basil should be an everyday nibble, you want to save the sugary snacks for only every other day or so. We often recommend setting up a whiteboard or something similar to track when your cutie has had his dessert since he’ll definitely pretend he hasn’t. That way, you don’t accidentally overload him with treats and wind up giving him tummy issues like diarrhea.

Also, mix up which special foods he gets so he can enjoy the variety and consume more nutrients. Remember, like us, guinea pigs don’t synthesize their own vitamin C, so they need it in their diet. Otherwise, they might be at risk of developing scurvy.

Is it safe for guinea pigs to eat apples?

Absolutely, and your piggie will love you for it! Apples can become your go-to fruit when you want to reward your pet. A whole one is likely too much for your tiny friend, though, so here’s where you get to share. Start him off with just one wedge and see if he takes a liking to it.

Every pet has different preferences, just like you, and you may find he prefers something else (like a nice, fat blueberry). You also want to introduce new foods slowly to maintain that precarious digestive system. Start with one or two apples per week and weave in a consistent repertoire of delicious munchies from there. 

Can guinea pigs eat apples with skin?

Before you offer that slice to your pet, you’ll need to do a few things to prepare it. First, do not allow him to eat the apple seeds or any part of the core. Keep the skin on though, because the fiber is good for your cavy (and he’ll enjoy it).

In addition, you want to make sure the fruit is very fresh and not under-ripe or too acidic. Avoid green apples and crab apples that could be harsh on his stomach because they’re so biting. Lastly, you can provide the dried variety as long as you carefully monitor his sugar intake (as these are often extra sweet without the water).

What fruits are bad for guinea pigs?

While apples and blueberries will make great snacks, there are some fruits you can not give your animal. These include anything with really strong flavors, like most citrus and spicy fruits. So don’t reach for the spicy peppers, lemons, or even sliced pineapple.

Your little guy is not prepared to take those on even if you enjoy them — it’s too much for his sensitive tummy. Additionally, you must avoid avocado, rhubarb, and tomato, much of which is poisonous to your pet. Lastly, don’t forget that even if the fruit itself is fine, you should get rid of the pit or seeds in advance.

Keep your guinea pig’s diet varied

Giving your delightful pet a good life includes serving him excellent meals. As you don’t want the same things all the time, you should vary his diet, too. His bread and butter will be timothy hay with daily side salads and strawberries for dessert.

Remember: Guinea pigs should never eat actual bread or butter, and mushrooms, iceberg lettuce, and onions should also be avoided. No piggy can process junk food either and too much salt will make him sick (even if it seems he wants it). By balancing his diet, you help him to live a long and healthy life while enjoying the ride.

Best hamster bedding

While it’s sensible to look for cheap hamster bedding options, it’s just as important to ensure that you’re buying a product that’s also safe for your little guy. The following bedding types are not only affordable but also pet-friendly and available at stores and online retailers.

Aspen shavings

Wood shavings are probably the most widely used type of small-animal bedding available. Shavings are a great, cheap hamster substrate, and when you buy a larger package, you can get even better value.

It’s important to use the right kind of shavings, though. Pine and cedar are not safe for hamsters. These shavings are typically harder and can splinter off, harming your pet. They can also irritate your hamster’s lungs.

Instead, use aspen. They’re safe for hamsters, and while they’re not super soft for burrowing, you can pair them with some soft bedding material for your hamster to make a nest with. Kaytee All Natural Aspen Bedding is great for hamsters and contains no oils or inks. It’s processed to remove extra dust and debris, so it’s a healthy choice for your pet.

Paper litter

Shredded paper can make a safe hamster bedding. If you’re going to use shredded paper, make sure it’s ink-free, as ink can be toxic. Instead, use paper towels or plain paper. Many hamsters enjoy burrowing into soft paper towel shreds. Traditional paper can get smelly, though, so you’ll need to regularly clean your hamster’s cage.

If you don’t have time to find and shred paper, consider using Carefresh Small Pet Bedding. This bedding is made of natural paper fiber that’s twice as absorbent as traditional wood shavings. It’s soft and comfortable, and its odor-control properties help suppress stinky ammonia smells for up to 10 days.

Timothy hay

Timothy hay can double as a bedding and as a snack. It’s included in many hamster food formulas, so if your furry friend decides to eat breakfast in bed, he can safely ingest this floor cover. This hay isn’t as absorbent as some of the other bedding options, but it can make a soft nest and is ideal for hamsters who love to burrow into their beds. Timothy can also be a cheap hamster bedding, especially if you can buy a bale from a local farmer.

Types of bedding to avoid

While there are plenty of safe hamster bedding options available, there are some products on the market that you should avoid using.

Scented beddings

Scented beddings are intended to cover up some of the odors that come with owning a hamster, but they can be too strong for your little pet’s sensitive nose. These scented beddings are full of artificial chemicals, which can lead to respiratory issues for your hamster. While it might seem like a good idea, you’re better off buying a safe bedding and keeping odors down by regularly cleaning your hamster’s cage.

Cat litter

Some hamster owners use cat litter as bedding, but this can also come with potential problems. When used as a base, plain cat litter pellets can help reduce odors. It’s important to top it off with plenty of soft bedding that your hamster can burrow into. Be sure to avoid using scented and clumping cat litters — if your hamster ingests or fills his cheek pouches with clumping litter, it can cause blockages and even kill your pet.

Fluffy bedding

Fluffy bedding might sound appealing, and it’s sold in many pet stores. Unfortunately, this bedding, which is sometimes marketed as nesting material, can pose a serious risk to your hamster’s health. Fluffy bedding is often made with artificial fibers that can cause internal blockages if eaten. Hamsters can also get their limbs tangled, potentially injuring themselves.

Pine and cedar shavings

As mentioned earlier, you should also avoid using pine or cedar shavings. They’re sharp and can cause bronchial irritation.

How to DIY bedding at home

As we mentioned, you can certainly invest in commercial hamster bedding, especially if you’re able to buy in bulk or online for cheap. However, it might wind up being less expensive or easier to try making it yourself. Shredding paper or tissue by hand certainly works, though, we recommend using a shredder if you have one around. Be careful not to let any lubricant or other chemicals get on it. One last option is to cut up strips with scissors or a paper cutter, making sure they’re small enough. Some experts recommend dipping in water to make a soupy layer of bedding for your little guy.

Frequently asked questions about hamster bedding

• How much bedding should your hamster have? Hamsters love to dig and tunnel, so as long as you’re buying one of the hamster-safe materials above, the more the merrier.
• How often should you change your hamster’s bedding? Dirty bedding should be scooped out every day, but you should change out all of it on a weekly basis. Clean the entire habitat monthly.

Bedding plays a major role in your hamster’s health and comfort, but it doesn’t have to be expensive to be safe and good for your pet. You can find  plenty of safe and cheap hamster bedding options at your pet store or online retailers. Some hamsters prefer different types of bedding, so you may want to experiment with a few kinds, or even a combination, to find the bedding that works best for your pet.

Whether you’re taking in rescue tadpoles or planning to keep frogs as pets, you’ll have to adapt continually to their changing bodies. These amphibians undergo a metamorphosis and live as tadpoles for up to 14 weeks, though the last stage of the transition happens in just 24 hours.

You’ll put them to bed as a kid and come back to a teenager. Also, tadpoles are vegetarians, but frogs are carnivorous, so you should prepare for their diet to evolve as they do over the course of a few months. Here’s what to feed tadpoles.

What should you look into first

Be mindful that there are laws regulating amphibian ownership. You may need a permit to house these guys in your home in their child stage, adult stage, or both. Do your research fully to ensure you’re complying with local and state laws plus any regulations for your apartment or HOA.

Lastly, confirm with yourself and your family that you intend to commit for the long haul. Some frogs can live a decade, and you would have to keep them the whole time, plus the next generation, if you wind up with males and females.

How to care for tadpoles

Right off the bat, you need to make a couple of big decisions. Are you rescuing and releasing? Will your tadpoles live outdoors in a pond? Or do you intend to keep your animals when they become frogs?

While many tadpoles can live together when they hatch, an indoor tank will quickly become overcrowded with adult frogs. You’ll also need to update your tank’s decor as they morph. To start, tadpoles live entirely underwater and have gills like fish. In fact, most frog moms lay the eggs beneath the surface, so the entirety of the baby’s early life is spent submerged in your pool or tank.

As they begin the transition, everything about tadpole care changes. The key here is to look for those little back legs because that tells you the process has started and it’s time to think about making adjustments. Your froglet, an in-between stage in which they have both front and back legs but still have their tail, needs to spend some time out of water.

After the back legs have appeared, begin to add sticks and rocks or a small platform in anticipation of their lungs. Of course, their diet will need to adapt substantially as well. It can feel like every day they want something different to eat. Prepare for this by doing some meal prep as frog puberty sets in.

What to feed tadpoles

If you bring home eggs, you’ll be able to watch the entire frog-rearing cycle. Tiny tadpoles will hatch, and they’ll be extremely hungry. Luckily, their first food source is right there in the tank. They’ll eat their own eggs to start, which contain some vital nutrients that their little growing bodies need. Next, they will want to munch on veggies and pond plants. If you’re feeding them anything from the kitchen, make sure to boil it. We recommend you give them dinner every day or every other day.

As the tadpoles develop into adults, they become carnivorous and suddenly want to eat meat, mostly insects. When they’re about 6 weeks old, introduce a few bugs into mealtimes and see what happens. When you see fully formed front legs, it’s time to pause the feeding. It seems weird, but your blossoming frogs will actually eat their own tails (a little gross, but it works). When they finally emerge transformed, you’ll move entirely into frog foods. So, what can you feed your animals? Stick with these items.

Food for tadpoles:

• Algae
• Romaine lettuce
• Kale
• Cucumber (no seeds)
• Broccoli
• Carrot
• Commercial tadpole food

Food for frogs:

• Crickets
• Mealworms
• Grasshoppers
• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Commercial fish or frog food

What not to feed tadpoles

The smaller the tadpole, the more they need to rely on leafy greens and algae. As they develop, follow their cues to determine which snacks they’re ready for. However, you should stay away from some foods entirely because tadpoles can’t digest them.

• Never feed these amphibians commercial pet food made for another animal. Dog, cat, and even turtle kibble can be deadly for them.
• You also want to avoid sugary snacks like fruit or pumpkin, and always take out the seeds from any other squash you might give (small amounts of zucchini, for example, are OK). Unless it’s in the veggie drawer, it’s probably off-limits. Make sure all vegetables are fresh, too (no preservatives or butter allowed).
• Once they get to the bug-consuming stage, stick with feeder insects from the pet store. You don’t want to bring in any diseases from the backyard.
• Lastly, if your tadpoles don’t get enough calories, they may start to eat one another. You can separate them temporarily to get back to a healthy feeding schedule.

There are a few more things to keep in mind about your new tadpoles. First, mosquitoes love still aquariums and may use the water as a place to breed. If you keep your pets indoors, be mindful of insects. Change the water frequently to prevent pests and maintain your little guys’ health. After every feeding, remove any excess bits of lettuce or wafers (some ponds and tanks can handle growing algae, so leave that alone). Old food will rot and contaminate the enclosure. Check with a vet or specialist if you notice anything wrong with your new pets, like signs of disease or alarming digestive issues, especially after a change in sustenance.

By paying close attention to the signs of a dying hamster, you can be ready to step in as a pet parent and help them finish the end of their life well. Watch out for any of these symptoms, which should be accompanied by a visit to the vet, since they can have a few different causes.

Loss of appetite

Since you feed your hamster daily, you should notice quickly if they’ve cut back on eating. Pay particular attention if they turn their little nose up at treats that normally get gobbled down. While skipping snacks can certainly indicate that your hamster is nearing their last days, there are lots of other reasons they might miss meals, so don’t take this as an immediate indicator that they’ll soon be gone.

Slowing down

Most hamsters will play a lot — they’re known for riding that wheel all night. If you begin to see a precipitous decline in their activity level, it might mean old age has set in. Additionally, sometimes hamsters accidentally slip into hibernation if it gets too cold. While wild ones may need to do this yearly, your pet isn’t equipped to sleep for that long. Start by warming up their area to about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and contact their vet if they don’t wake up.

Health issues

You’ll want to monitor their hamster health every day and note anything concerning. A fever indicates that they might have an infection or other sickness. Rodents can also become dehydrated, which might show up as tightness or bunchiness in the skin. You can also usually tell when your hamster is coming down with something because they’ll become weak, tired, or sluggish.

Bathroom troubles

More specifically, diarrhea in hamsters can indicate a serious issue. Check when you clean the cage to ensure their digestion flows well. Sometimes your pet will experience vomiting or drooling, both of which mean you need to take action. Beware of wet tail, a deadly infection you can spot by checking the underside of their tail when handling your pet. If they have it, they’ll need to get to the vet right away to clear it up.

Skin problems

Your hamster will scratch occasionally, just like most mammals, but excessive picking can show you that something else is wrong. Look closely for spots, redness, or flaky skin when you examine him. A healthy animal will have a nice shiny coat. Take note if it goes dull or they lose patches of fur. In many cases, this could go away, but you’ll need to look into the underlying problem and soothe their skin with creams.

Cold symptoms

These pets often come down with the sniffles, and some of the signs look very familiar since they’re a lot like what you might experience when sick. A runny nose, watery eyes, and mucus are all indicators. A young hamster might easily recover from a cold, but an elderly pet may not get better.

Hiding too much

Most species of hamsters prefer to come out at night, so you don’t need to worry if they frequently hide during the day. However, a sudden change in behavior like hiding all the time could be a sign of a much larger issue such as acute stress, which can be deadly to your little pet. 

Is my hamster dying or just hibernating?

Even by paying close attention to the signs, nothing will quite prepare you for finding your hamster unresponsive. However, you need to take a better look because sometimes a still hamster is actually hibernating. So you should confirm that your little guy has passed. To do this, first gently stroke their fur and check for any reactive movement, especially a twitch in the whiskers. If your pet doesn’t react, next hold a spoon or mirror up to their tiny nose and look for the telltale signs of breath. Lastly, check the environment to make sure you haven’t accidentally created hibernation conditions and adjust as necessary. For example, if the cage area got really cold over night, turn up the heat and see if your hamster revived.

Generally, you can trust your instincts when it comes to your pet. Anything out of the ordinary might warrant a trip to the vet to figure out what’s wrong. In some cases, a little medicine or a change of environment takes care of it. But if your little pet is ready for the happy hamster grounds, you should focus on keeping them pain-free with medicine, warm with blankets, and comfortable with your presence.

What’s better than one pet rabbit? An entire litter of bunnies (as long as you’re prepared for them, of course). If you’ve been wondering, “Is my rabbit pregnant?” now is the time to find out for sure. After all, you don’t want to be caught unaware and suddenly have a whole new colony of animals in your hutch.

Sometimes, lady bunnies can take on the behaviors of expectant mamas, but it’s actually a false pregnancy. The best way to find out if your rabbit is pregnant is to take her to the vet and have them confirm it. However, when you’re figuring it out yourself, you should look for the signs that a rabbit is pregnant. If you spot these behaviors, be sure to call your animal doctor.

She’s recently been with an intact male

It’s certainly one of the most obvious pregnant rabbit signs, but the bunny gestation period is surprisingly short. The babies will remain in utero only for about a month before the mother gives birth, so if she hasn’t been near a mate in that time, she’s probably not pregnant. When you see pregnancy symptoms and she’s not carrying offspring, take her to the vet to find out what else might be the issue. If she is carrying a litter, your vet might do an ultrasound to check that everything’s going well. 

Your rabbit’s gaining weight

Just like with humans and other mammals, your little animal will get bigger when she’s expecting. However, it may be tricky to notice a difference with the naked eye. Take your doe’s weight before pregnancy (but after she’s reached sexual maturity) and weigh her each week after she’s been bred. She might gain only a few ounces, but a digital scale will track her increase. For consistency, always weigh her before feeding. If you discover she’s pregnant, increase her daily food intake, especially the alfalfa, as she needs more nutrients during this time.

You feel her babies

Surprisingly, you’ll be able to feel the tiny creatures on the way by stroking her belly. You’ll notice these pea-sized infants at around 10 days. Be careful with them, though, as pushing too hard can hurt the not-fully-formed bunnies. After two weeks, you shouldn’t try this at all, and a vet will always be your safest bet if you don’t have much experience handling pregnant rabbits.

Her mood changes

Your seemingly loving rabbit suddenly doesn’t like you. Did you do something wrong? Probably not. If she’s pregnant, she may become aggressive, even growling at you and her friends. Be extra careful around her during this time as moms sometimes bite and often don’t want to be handled. It’s best to give her space for now. She’ll be back to normal soon enough. While moodiness isn’t a clear sign on its own to prove that she’s bringing you little ones, coupled with other factors, it can indicate that her due date is approaching.

She starts nesting

One of the most obvious signs before a rabbit gives birth is nesting. The mom-to-be will begin to create her roost about a week before she gives birth, which can help you set a timeline if you weren’t quite sure when she conceived. Your rabbit will stack bedding into a corner or dig to make a small den. If there isn’t sufficient material to suit her, she might even rip out her own hair to enlarge the nest and make a blanket for her bunnies. This means that your new pets will be here any day now.

Give her plenty of hay to finish her building and a box to help her along. You’ll want to begin to monitor her for signs of labor at about 28 days, though 31 is typical. If it’s been more than 35 days, she needs to be induced by a specialist.

Can you touch a pregnant rabbit?

In addition to becoming aggressive, rabbits tend to shy away from others toward the end of their pregnancies. It might seem like a hard time to stay away, but mama bunnies know exactly how to do this on their own. Let her have space for her birth and then check on the newborns when she’s done. While you’re at it, try to give her a hutch to herself for the home stretch — she doesn’t want the company of her own kind either. The most important part is to reduce her stress (and temptation to turn mean) during this time. One option: Put up a camera in an out-of-the-way spot where it won’t bug her, but allows you to keep an eye on both mom and the babies.

When you finally do enter the mother’s house, you could find up to 15 babies, as rabbit litters can be quite large. We hope all the babies make it, but you should remove any kits that don’t survive. Then retreat while she nurses and bonds with her new family. Keep her away from mates for a while so you don’t have too many little guys at once, and spay or neuter when you’re ready to stop breeding.