Just like all living beings, snakes need to catch some z’s to rest and restore themselves. According to new research, believe it or not, reptiles experience REM sleep and they even dream, just like humans. But how to tell if your snake is sleeping? It can be quite the challenge, since you won’t be able to rely on seeing your snake’s closed eyes as a sign. Instead, you’ll learn to look for other signs that could indicate your pet is napping.
Taking the time to learn these signs will allow you to properly care for your pet snake and will keep you both much safer, especially if you need to handle them and don’t want to inadvertently interrupt their snooze fest. Let’s take a look at some of the indicators that will let you know that your slithery friend is, indeed, fast asleep.
By carefully observing your snake, you can tell if they’re asleep or awake. The key is knowing which signs to look for, and knowing a bit about your snake’s behavior, too.
The type of snake you have may partially dictate when they go to sleep. Some snakes stay active during certain times of day, sleeping at other times.
Diurnal snakes, or snakes that are most active during the day, include hognosed snakes, racers, sipos, and patch-nosed snakes. In contrast, other types of snakes like broad-headed snakes and night snakes tend to stay up at night and sleep during the day. The problem is, some snake species, including rat snakes, can vary their routines depending on the time of year, so there’s really no knowing when they might decide to doze off.
While judging by your snake’s breed isn’t a foolproof way to tell whether he’s asleep, it can help give you an idea of what times of day your snake is likelier to take a nap.
The season can play a role in snake sleeping habits. Most snakes spend about 16 hours per day asleep. In the winter, that can climb to 20 hours.
If your snake has recently eaten, they might be sleepier than usual. A big meal can make your snake drowsy, and they may rest 20 hours a day after a recent feeding.
While awake and asleep look pretty much the same in snakes, there are a few clues to help you tell the difference. A sleeping snake will stay in one position for hours — though this is also the posture a snake can assume while hunting. Or you might notice that the constantly flicking snake tongue isn’t engaged in its usual activity, or that they don’t react when you open the top of their cage or otherwise move around the area.
A relaxed snake might look a bit like a sleeping one. But if your slitherer is awake, you’ll likely see some movement when you watch long enough. While your pet is resting but not snoozing, you can pick him up — this is a great time to handle your animal and try to get him used to you.
Snakes enjoy climbing on humans if they have been properly socialized and will even form attachments to their owners. Assuming your reptile is relaxed while you hold him, he’ll gently move around. Remember, a hyper-focused snake is often waiting to strike. Watch out for the signs that he needs to be put down and left alone.
To further complicate matters, snakes in cold climates undergo a period called brumation, which means that they decrease their activity during the winter to save energy. So in a nutshell, some snakes do hibernate. If your snake is in brumation, they may move around less than usual. They probably won’t eat during this time.
If you disturb a snake that’s in brumation, they may act startled and confused, but when you put them down again, they won’t stay active.
No, snakes don’t have eyelids, so they can’t close their eyes (interestingly, they can’t blink either). Instead, they have a brille on each eye, a layer of transparent scales that covers and protects the eyes. This means snakes sleep with their eyes open. Your snake might not get “shut-eye,” but they do sleep. So you’ll just need to look for other signs that your snake is snoozing.
If you suspect your snake is sleeping, then you need to be careful in handling him. Picking up or disturbing a sleeping snake can startle him, and he might strike you in response. (Chances are, you’d be startled, too, and a bit irritated that someone woke you up from your nap.) Suddenly waking a sleeping snake can stress them out and won’t have a positive result for either of you.
Instead, if you suspect your snake is sleeping, it’s best to let them alone and allow them to wake up on their own. You can try making some gentle noises or introducing strong-smelling food to their environment to prompt them to wake up. If possible, though, let your snake get their beauty rest and go back to handle them when they’re awake.
]]>When you picture an adorable pet, you probably don’t visualize an iguana. Reptiles aren’t generally considered the cutest of animals, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find a cuddly one. Whether you’re looking for a new buddy for yourself or for your lizard-obsessed kid, there’s a reptilian beast out there that will work great in your home.
With proper socialization, these guys can learn to be handled daily, some even by children. If you want a new pet that enjoys human company, consider one of the most affectionate slitherers — they’re the best reptile pets for handling.
Not necessarily. One of the things that makes reptiles tricky is how foreign some of their needs are. Parrots, dogs, and humans often have similar requirements for food, exercise, warmth, and water. Since we’re all warm-blooded omnivores (for the most part), it feels natural to care for many of the animals we welcome into our homes.
Reptiles are totally different. You’ll have to think carefully about heating lamps, cool spots, gut loading, moisture levels, and skin shedding. So you only want to go down this path if you feel ready. That being said, with the right mindset, many lizards, snakes, and turtles make solid beginner pets (a few species don’t and we suggest holding off on those until you turn pro).
Don’t take the thick skin at face value: You absolutely can bond with your reptilian pet. It might take a little extra time and effort because they don’t have as much breeding or socialization as dogs and cats. There are a few key steps you need to follow for the best results:
No type of pet will work well for everyone, and you’ll be surprised how individual these animals can be, but we can give a few recs that will likely fit right into your family.
Typically known for being friendly and even enjoying being handled, bearded dragons can become close companions with their humans. As they get to know you, they’ll often learn to climb on your body and even ride around on your shoulders.
Bearded dragons can grow up to 24 inches long and live for up to 15 years. These friendly lizards are most active during the day, and they eat a diet of vegetables, plants, insects, and fruits. They are relatively easy to care for and train, and they are ideal for first-time reptile owners. Bearded dragons are not nocturnal, making them great pets to have around for daytime enjoyment.
Leopard geckos are known for their calm nature, which makes them easy to handle. Their small size, ranging from 7 to 10 inches long, adds to their manageability, and many will happily climb all over their owners. They typically live between six and 10 years in captivity.
Like other gecko breeds, leopard geckos can lose their tails if they’re injured and grow them back. They’re relatively simple pets and often do well in a 10-gallon aquarium. Females of the same size can be housed together, and because leopard geckos don’t have sticky feet, they can’t climb the sides of the tank.
These small pets are a good choice for first-time owners, making them one of the best reptile pets. Kids can handle them as long as someone supervises the children and warns them of the potential to harm the gecko’s tail.
Sometimes called the giant tegu, this lizard can be an excellent pet. With proper socialization, tegus are friendly and social, and they can even be housebroken. Adults tend to be highly docile, and these lizards are smart, too. Keep in mind that if your tegu isn’t socialized, it can show aggressive behavior, so this is a pet to take on only if your schedule allows you to handle it regularly.
Tegus are larger lizards, and they’ll require a cage measuring at least 6 feet long. These reptiles can live for 15 to 20 years and can grow to be up to 3 feet long. They have powerful tails, which are used as weapons in a fight. They eat a diet of meat, vegetables, and fruits, and because of their size, they require significantly more food than a group of smaller reptiles with a shorter life span.
A tegu can be a great pet for a family with older children who are carefully supervised when handling the lizard. This big lizard will do best with frequent socialization and interaction. These needs, paired with its increased care requirements, make it suitable only for an owner who is dedicated to the time and financial investment this pet will require.
Chinese water dragons are typically easy to tame, and they can be social and laid-back. They’re a friendlier alternative to the iguana, and when fully grown, they measure between two and three feet long. They also have a 10- to 15-year life expectancy, making them a great option for a reptile fan who can commit long-term to a pet’s care.
While Chinese water dragons may be friendly, they aren’t ideal for first-time reptile owners. They have complex care needs, including a minimum 6-foot-tall enclosure, UVB lighting, a precise temperature and humidity range, and a diet that includes some live foods like crickets and mealworms. Chinese water dragons do best when housed alone, since same-sex adults can fight. As a result, they’re perfect for avid, experienced reptile owners who have plenty of space and time to dedicate to their care.
Corn snakes are ideal for new pet owners, thanks to their docile and friendly nature. These snakes grow to be large enough to be handled regularly, even by kids, but because they don’t get over 6 feet long, they won’t overwhelm new snake owners. Their gorgeous colors and availability at most pet shops make them popular, too.
Corn snakes are also relatively easy to care for. Smaller snakes do well in a 20-gallon aquarium, and they can live into their 20s. These snakes don’t require any special lighting, and their diet consists mainly of mice.
Your pet corn snake may be nervous about being approached at first, but careful, quiet, and frequent handling can help them learn to be touched without protest. They’re a good choice for older children who want a snake, or for entire families who want to get their first reptile.
When choosing the right reptile for your home, do some thorough research into the care requirements. Remember that even if you choose one of these most affectionate reptiles, you’ll still need to socialize your pet so that it learns to be friendly toward people. Reptiles can have very specific care needs when it comes to diet, habitat, and even the temperature and humidity of their enclosure, so be prepared to meet these before you bring home a new pet.
]]>You bring home a little turtle to a beautiful habitat and realize you forgot one big thing: What do painted turtles eat? Because these turtles are an aquatic species, they spend most of their time in the water — both in the wild and in your house. This greatly impacts their diet, especially because as they consume meals, they must swallow under the surface.
Painted turtles are also omnivores and like a wide variety of foods. While many of these can be placed in their housing, you should also have a separate feeding tank, which will massively cut down on the mess. All food from the main tank will have to be scooped out daily; otherwise, it rots. Nevertheless, feeding your turtle can be fun, and occasionally they can even eat what you do.
When she’s a baby, you should give her food every day, but an adult eats only every two or three days. Also, females get bigger than males and may require slightly more food to accommodate their extra size. Large meals will hopefully take place in a separate tank to cut down on any mess, but you can include some snacks, like leafy greens, for her to nibble in her main home.
You might even clip these to the side of the housing for her to access anytime, and you’ll spot her happily heading over for a midday munching as she desires. As mentioned, the most important thing is variety. Even if she likes a certain morsel best, you need to give her other food items. These things should be the staple of her diet:
These turtles eat all kinds of things, which means they have various methods for finding food. Turtles and fish possess something called barbels that sense and even taste delicious food that’s coming their way. They use these to find both live food and carrion to snack on.
However, presumably, your turtle won’t always be on the lookout for meals as you’ll feed her at set times. Instead, you can use her hunting abilities as a form of stimulation. She may love to chase after certain animals or sniff out a special treat. Use her hunting instinct to her advantage, as it will help keep her healthy and active.
Even though you want to mix things up for her, there are still some foods that should always be avoided. Many things will fill her up, but lack enough nutrients, and others will provide too much of a bad thing. A little salt is fine, but a lot will harm her, just as it would you. Specifically, you can never give certain types of human sustenance that, while great for our bellies, will not be good for hers. Keep these out of your turtle tank:
You should stick with about 45% greens, 45% pellets and proteins, and 10% treats. That means delivering a special snack only once a week or so. Lots of delicacies contain too much fat or salt to serve as staples but will allow your turtle an extra delicious dinner. (Think of it as a night out for your pet and pamper her accordingly.)
Put together a calendar system, like a whiteboard, to track how often you put an extra into her meal. Alternatively, pick a “treat day” and stay consistent. This reptile enjoys hunting, so live fish and insects will keep her stimulated and full (it will make a mess, though). As part of her food rotation, you should stick with:
We can’t stress this enough: Your little pet needs a variety of textures, nutrients, and flavors to stay healthy and happy. Keep other parts of the schedule consistent, though, as that will help her stick to a good routine. Even with the perfect diet, you’ll probably want to add supplements — mainly calcium powder or a little calcium block. Dusting food with vitamins and nutrients makes it easy to incorporate them into her meal. Work closely with a reptile vet to establish a really solid feeding plan and update it as your turtle ages. Remember, these little guys live for decades, so you want to ensure you have not just a good meal plan but a solid life plan as well.
]]>Yes, but only if they're the proper size. It's illegal in America to buy a turtle with a shell less than four inches. This is because small turtles have been linked to salmonella outbreaks. You also want to go through a reputable breeder regardless of your new pet's size.
Research carefully and examine the animals before picking one as a pet, if at all possible. You'll spot issues like dirty tanks, sluggish Testudines, and neglectful shop owners more easily that way. Lastly, check your own state and local laws, and even those of your apartment or HOA to make sure you're allowed to house a reptile.
When buying a new turtle, your first key decision is whether to get a terrestrial animal or an aquatic one. They require slightly different habitats, but both will need access to water and land, which means you will fully equip your terrarium for them to enjoy both environments. Before you even bring your new pet home, you need to have his home ready.
Turtles like space, so find a large designated area in your home. Even small turtles get bigger — be sure the new housing provides enough room for the turtle when he grows up. You may also decide to use a starter habitat and upgrade as he gets older.
When designing baby turtle habitats, it’s important to get the setup just right. You’ll need the correct temperature, water-to-land ratio, and proper basking areas all in one medium-sized tank.
Step 1: Get the right tank! Don’t use a fishbowl, too-small housing, or any tank without a lid. Your turtle needs at least 20 gallons or much larger if you don't intend to upgrade in the future.
Step 2: Fill up with water, but not too much water. Plan to have at least 50% land (for a terrestrial turtle) or a large basking area (for an aquatic turtle) when your pet is fully grown.
For a hatchling, the depth of the water must be greater than the width of his shell, but not so deep that the turtle has trouble getting out. You can measure this with a ruler in advance, but you should be able to see if he's having an easy time swimming around. Install a ramp if it looks like your little guy is struggling to get in and out.
Step 3: Once you have the water situation set, you get to the fun part: decorating your turtle’s new home. Add a mix of rocks, plants, and structures to your design for him to explore. Think about where you will leave extra food, like plants, for him to nibble on during the day and keep it away from the water.
Step 4: Turn up the heat. Turtles need to stay warm, and you will have to install a heating lamp in the enclosure to keep the temperature around 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Situate the basking rock so it gets direct "sunlight" and put a cave at the other end for him to have a cooldown.
Step 5: Lastly, keep the tank clean. Invest in a filtration system and poop scoop but still do a partial water change every couple of days. You want to deep clean his tank about once per month, so set aside those tools for later.
Feeding your turtle can be one of the most fun parts of interacting with him on a daily basis. In the wild, turtles eat a diet of worms, snails, and plants along with a few other things they might find around their waterholes. Food from the pet store will keep his diet balanced and is designed to mimic the vitamins and nutrients he would seek out if he were free to roam.
Step 1: Invest in a feeding tank. While not strictly necessary, it can cut down on the mess substantially. Instead of painstakingly pulling out bits of lettuce, you just dump the water or extra substrate when he's done.
Step 2: Feed every day. Baby turtles need a daily meal, but you may taper that as he gets older. An older turtle might only eat every three days.
Step 3: Try a live feeding. Even though you might not enjoy watching it, turtles like to catch their food. Give him the opportunity to try it out as a baby by feeding him live prey and see if he takes to it. For a terrestrial reptile, this means crickets or worms on land, and for an aquatic species, it's fish in the water.
Turtles don’t like to be handled much and can carry diseases that are bad for humans. Properly wash your hands whenever you come into contact with him. In addition to playing at mealtimes, your turtle may enjoy exploring the outside world. Be mindful of predators and escape routes, and take him out (weather permitting) to walk around in the yard and bask in the sunshine. Inside his home, he'll play with toys like shells or plants and will enjoy digging in the gravel.
We all know turtles famously live a long time. When you bring home a baby turtle, you're signing up to take care of him for possibly 40 to 50 years. Ensure you know who will take him when your kid moves out or moves on from caring for him. With the right plan in place, though, you’ll have a fun and not too demanding pet for your home for years to come.
]]>The first step in getting a new pet of any species is research. You want to make sure you’re adopting or purchasing your pet from a reputable breeder who uses ethical sourcing techniques to acquire their animals. While veterinarians suggest that all pet parents spay and neuter their companions, some animals can be bred without causing distress to you or your pet.
One of the easiest pets to breed is the bearded dragon. With that being said, we recommend having experience under your belt before you embark on your journey as a breeder. Here’s what you should know about breeding bearded dragons.
When they’re babies, it’s really difficult to tell the sex of your lizard. Wait until he or she reaches maturity before making that determination, which is actually a good thing for breeding. You don’t want to start your female reptile before 18 months for health reasons. In order to look at the little beast, you need to get comfortable enough to feel the underbelly, so give it a few days after bringing your beardie home.
Then do a hemipenal check. While your pet rests safely, gently lift up the tail at the base and see if you spot hemipenal bulges in his underbelly. See them? You have a male. If it doesn’t work the first time, grab a flashlight to help you with the process. Don’t forget, your exotic vet can always assist if you find yourself stumped by this method.
Most of what you require for breeding, you should already have for successfully keeping beardies in the first place. That means a large cage, substrate, accessories, and heating and UVB lamps. Those are just the absolute basics necessary to maintain good health and happiness in your herps.
Additionally, you’ll want a separate tank to move the female to while she’s gravid, and also a lay box. Once the eggs are laid, you may decide to incubate them in a separate area with its own heating and hydrating system.
Lastly, you must have a place ready to go for any babies that do come around.
It’s extremely normal for them not to take the first time; don’t despair if you wind up with unfertilized eggs. Wait and then try again in the future.
While the eggs rest, you still must carefully monitor them and keep conditions optimal. When hatching time comes, leave the new little babies alone and let them do their thing. Have an enclosure prepared and start finding forever homes for your mini lizards. You likely won’t want to keep two dozen more beardies in addition to the male and female you already have. This is where you could recoup some of your costs.
If you have local friends or stores that might help facilitate the sales, that’s a great way to go. Otherwise, look into online postings on reputable websites. You could get up to $50 per animal, though remember that you need to deduct your equipment costs from that. When you add in all the time it takes to care for both parents and babies, you won’t typically make much profit.
While many methods of bearded dragon breeding are ethical, you do want to make sure you don’t contribute to an oversupply of pets. Never hatch more babies than you can sell or give away, and do your own research to confirm they wind up in good homes (as best as you can). You can help assure this by only allowing each individual to purchase a few animals and asking them about their setup and knowledge of herping. And wait to get into it until you’re ready! Most owners become experts in their dragons before jumping into the mating game.
]]>It’s important to clean your pet’s home frequently to keep away smell and sickness. This might not be the most pleasant part of pet ownership, but you’ll be happy you did it.
There are two types of cleaning when it comes to your turtle’s tank. Just as you spot-clean your house or apartment, you should include routine maintenance in your daily schedule. For your turtle's home, that will mean picking up droppings, leftovers, and other obvious gross spots, such as soiled newspaper.
Every week, you should also include a partial water change and, in a terrestrial tank, replace substrate as necessary. Note, even if the water looks OK, it may have extra chemicals in it, like nitrates, so do the change anyway and test the water. For a full-scale cleaning, you need to set aside some time and put this on the calendar every four to six weeks, depending on what kind of mess your little friend makes.
Deep cleaning may seem daunting before you've tried it, but after the first go, you'll easily add tank scrubbing to your chore chart. The one thing you always need to be careful about is using pet-safe materials. Try not to introduce any unwanted chemicals into the habitat or you'll risk hurting your turtle and disrupting your little ecosystem.
Step 1: Remove everything.
Starting with your turtle. You don't want to work around your pet or have them come into contact with any of the cleaning accouterments. If you have a separate feeding or travel housing, bust it out and put your turtle in there.
Step 2: Scrub down the tank.
Use a pet-safe cleanser or a diluted bleach solution to get into every nook and cranny of your turtle house. Remember to get the top of the tank and into the corners since those can hide gunk or invisible germs. Leave a long time to dry — a few hours — to ensure there's no smell or tiny particles left.
Step 3: Clean all tank accessories.
You'll mostly replenish your substrate, so toss out the old material and have a big bag of new substrate waiting. But rocks and toys can go right back in after a little wiping down. Some items from the pet store may even be dishwasher safe; otherwise, you can rinse as necessary. Wood will eventually rot and fall apart, so get new sticks or bark now and then.
Step 4: Replace substrate and water.
As mentioned, you'll use new substrate when you do a deep clean since chips and paper both soil easily. For terrestrial and aquatic tanks, water needs to be completely fresh, and you want to mind your source for impurities as well. Run your full testing kit whenever you do a clean.
Step 5: Change things up.
Just as you redecorate your home every so often, your turtle will love a new place to explore occasionally. Make sure you keep a space for "sunning" even if you shift it a bit one way or the other. Introducing new objects can serve as stimulation for your animal, too.
Step 6: Give your pet a treat.
Now's a good time to reward your reptile with a little turtle treat. You don't want to dole these out too often, but the occasional dessert will keep them happy. Buy commercial treats from the pet store or figure out their favorite snack, maybe a banana for a box turtle or a feeder fish for a red-eared slider.
All these tips should act as guidelines. Pay attention to your terrarium so you can spot when it gets especially dirty and needs a thorough cleaning. Also, there are a few things you can do to keep the dirtiness down, such as getting a feeding tank for mealtimes. Remember, too, that many of these turtles can live decades, which is a lot of deep cleanings over a lifetime. Only bring home a little fella if you’re in it for the long haul.
]]>So does that mean you can’t own a turtle unless you meet someone in a trench coat for the exchange? There’s a right way to go about this and we’ll tell you how.
Before you jump into any reptile ownership, you should carefully research their needs and behaviors. Because they’re an entirely different class of animals from us, they don’t necessarily act the way you might think. In addition to all the usual worries, like preventing animals from being kept in inhumane conditions, there are three main problems that can occur with irresponsible turtle ownership.
We noted at the top that turtles have been linked to salmonella outbreaks. You need to get your animal from a reputable pet store, preferably in your neighborhood and not online (where shady deals can be harder to spot). On top of that, the CDC recommends that no one keep turtles in a house with any humans under 5 or over 65 or who have a compromised immune system.
As mentioned, more and more people are bringing home these beasties and as a result, some unethical importers have turned to wild-caught creatures. In many places, this is illegal, but that doesn’t stop people from capturing and then selling them to families. These actions have contributed to dwindling populations and low birth rates among some turtle species around the globe.
When you bring home any animal, you commit to them for life. In the case of a turtle, that could be decades. These pets are occasionally included in wills because they live so long! Because of that, they are often taken to a creek and let loose, sometimes with devastating results.
While all turtles might look the same to you, owners might be introducing a non-native species (and they might not be ready to face the great outdoors) into the wild. If you absolutely must rehome your animal, surrender them to a shelter.
Don’t worry. You can absolutely own a happy turtle for decades (since they’re one of the longest-living pets, though tortoises absolutely have them beat). By following these steps, you’re all but ensuring you’re being a safe, ethical, and legal turtle pet parent.
We emphasize the importance of this, but it can be tricky, nonetheless. One option, consider adopting a turtle from a rescue or even a friend who can no longer care for them. Remember, you will have this companion for a long time, so it doesn’t matter if they’ve already got some life behind them. Alternatively, seek out a store with information about their breeding program and ask questions! You can also read reviews to confirm that the animals are doing well after they leave the shop.
It’s best not to buy a pet on a whim. You’ll need to get their house set up in plenty of time before they arrive with all the correct lighting, accessories, and care items. The most important part of this is buying a tank that’s big enough for your animal. Turtles should never go in fish bowls or hamster cages, even if they look similar.
All pets need to be taken care of and turtles are no different, which means a proper diet and enough exercise and stimulation plus the TLC you give to any scaly friend. Believe it or not, turtles can become attached to their people and even show affection, learn their names, and memorize a few simple tricks. Show them that you’re in their corner by always providing the best care (and turtle treats).
Jonathan the tortoise celebrated his 190th birthday in 2022. For context, that’s the year Andrew Jackson was re-elected president (Jonathan’s lived through 40 of them). A turtle (or tortoise) might look appealing when you have elementary-aged kids and then seem like a burden after they leave for college. As soon as you begin the reptile conversation, discuss what your care plan will be if/when your little guy reaches a half-century in age.
Turtles make great pets, but it’s important that you fully commit to bringing home and raising an animal in the most ethical way possible. That means not buying a tiny reptile nor grabbing a little guy from a disreputable source, and also thinking through their care plan for decades to come (in case they outlive you or you wind up unable to keep them long term). And this is not to mention the daily feedings, cage cleanings, and substrate changings you’ll have to go through as part of regular maintenance. As long as you put in a little work beforehand, you can enjoy many Testudine occasions for the next 40 or so years.
]]>But have you ever wondered, “Can snakes swim?” — and which snakes can swim? Well, the answer, interestingly, is all of them.
And no, swimming ability doesn’t depend on whether a snake is venomous or not. Some swim partially submerged with only their heads above the water, and others with practically their entire bodies gliding on the surface.
The next question is, how do snakes swim without any limbs?
In the article below, we’ll discuss exactly how and why some of these serpents go for a dive and others ride the waves.
To understand how snakes can swim, you need to know how they move at all. A snake’s entire body is lined with muscle underneath its scales, and it uses those muscles and scales in combination to progress across the landscape. Here are the four ways snakes move.
In tight spaces, one might observe a snake using the concertina method to propel himself forward. It’s a bit like how an inchworm moves, actually. First, the snake anchors the rear of its body by pressing against the ground or an object. It then pushes forward with the rest of its body. Then it drops its head and sort of hangs onto the ground with its chin while skootching the rest of its body forward.
In this method, the snake creeps forward in a straight line. It’s a slow crawl, and the snake basically uses the broad scales on its stomach to clutch the earth and push itself forward.
This is the kind of movement that you normally think of when you picture a snake slithering across the ground — wavy. The snake pushes off from a resting state from just about anything next it. It then uses momentum to stay in motion, undulating its body and using its belly scales to push itself forward.
Snakes primarily use this type of motion when they’re on a surface that’s hard for their stomach scales to grip, such as mud or sand. The snake will throw its head forward and wriggle its body in the same direction. As its body moves, the snake throws its head forward yet again, so its motion continues.
So far so good, but how exactly do snakes move their bodies through water?
The answer is that snakes use nearly the same motions in water as they do on land. When you see a snake essentially bodysurfing across the top of the water, it’s most often using the serpentine method discussed above. That’s true whether on a pond, a lake, or the sea
The snake uses the surface tension of the water combined with its movement to stay afloat. When a snake undulates in the water, drawing what amounts to an “S” with its body, it applies force to the water behind it. That force propels the snake forward through the water.
Although most snakes move quite well on land, the same cannot be said for moving in or across the water. Of course, certain snake species have adapted to an aquatic environment, such as sea snakes. These guys are expert swimmers. Certain freshwater snake species are also better swimmers than their mostly terrestrial counterparts.
Snakes that have adapted to a life near or in water have bodies that are a little more flattened, and some even have tails that may remind you of a paddle. Of course, this helps them dart forward and move faster and more efficiently than land-based snakes.
Additionally, some sea snakes are known to travel great distances, sometimes from island to island!
So, water is no barrier to snakes. All of them can swim using the same four movements that propel them over land (and trees and mountains) even without limbs. Some snakes skim and some submerge to get through water, but all of them can navigate this challenging part of their environment.
]]>Jackson acquired two of her school guinea pigs with help from The Pet Care Trust’s Pets in the Classroom grant program. These grants provide financial support to teachers for the adoption or purchase and maintenance of small animals in Pre-K through Grade 9 classes. Since its inception in 2010, the program has impacted more than 8.1 million students across the U.S. and Canada.
More than a thousand teachers responded to a recent Pets in the Classroom survey on the impact classroom pets have on their students. The results revealed a wide variety of benefits including:
Decreased anxiety
Almost 95 percent of teachers reported a decrease in anxiety among students when around classroom pets.
Greater empathy and compassion
Ninety-eight percent of teachers noticed an increase in empathy and compassion. One respondent said her students acted more calmly to avoid stressing their pet guinea pigs.
Improvement in academic performance
Eighty-four percent of respondents saw an improvement in academic performance with one teacher saying her students greatly improved their reading test scores by reading to the classroom fish.
Increased social skills
Ninety-six percent of teachers saw an increase in social skills with students connecting over a shared love of their classroom pet.
Increase in student engagement
Ninety-eight percent of teachers said caring for classroom pets was an enriching experience for students. One ecology teacher shared that caring for fish in the classroom is a practical way to make learning come alive for her students
According to the Pets in the Classroom grant program teachers should ask the following questions before choosing a classroom pet:
Classroom aquariums are soothing and tranquil as well as visually intriguing for young children. Fish are a great option for teachers who don’t want children handling pets. Students can participate in the care of the fish including feeding and water changes. Aquarists at LiveAquaria say that classroom aquariums can be used to teach students about such topics as fish anatomy, the food chain, the water cycle, or the nitrogen cycle.
2. Guinea pigs
Veterinarian Laurie Hess highly recommends guinea pigs as classroom pets. In a Vetstreet article, Hess describes these cute critters as hardy, fairly long-lived rodents that can be safely handled by most children with adult supervision. Small children are especially drawn to these friendly gentle animals. Students learn responsibility by helping to clean their pet’s cage while also helping to change the food, water, and bedding.
3. Leopard geckos
Young children are attracted to these cute reptiles because of their gorgeous big eyes, smiling faces, and leopard spots. Leopard geckos are quiet and friendly making them a wonderful choice for the classroom. These pets are happy when gently held and will thrill students by walking across their hands. A well-balanced leopard gecko diet consists of crickets, small mealworms, and waxworms along with fresh, clean drinking water. All reptiles carry salmonella bacteria, so students must be taught to wash their hands after handling their gecko.
4. Rats
Rats are clean, friendly, affectionate, and entertaining making them a popular choice for the classroom. In a PetMD article, veterinarian, Clark Fobian says rats make great school pets because they are intelligent and easy to care for. These rodents enjoy performing tricks and students can offer stimulation by providing a variety of toys and strategically arranging climbing robes inside their pet’s enclosure.
5. Hermit crabs
Hermit crabs make unusual and interesting classroom pets for children of all ages. In nature, they travel in packs of up to 100 so it’s best to keep at least two together in a classroom environment. Caring for these little crabs is a science lesson for students who learn how to keep their school pets healthy by creating a humid environment. Young students are intrigued that hermit crabs live in shells. They also love discovering that their pets have different personalities with some being more outgoing and curious than others.
6. Gerbils
Gerbils are energetic and friendly and are active during the day which makes them great classroom companions. They enjoy living in pairs and teachers should make sure they are of the same sex to avoid breeding. They do well in 10-gallon aquariums with a secure wire-mesh cover. Decorating the enclosure with exercise wheels, toys and bedding makes for a fun class project. These rodents will provide lots of entertainment as they tunnel their way through the substrate in their enclosure.
Finally, experts at the Massachusetts Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals say that introducing a classroom pet should always start with a lesson on responsible care and commitment to animal guardianship. The nonprofit encourages teachers to turn to shelters and rescues when looking for a school pet. In addition to saving a life, educators will be teaching students a valuable lesson about compassion for animals.
]]>The class Reptilia is a diverse group of animals that range from the tiniest lizards to the largest turtles. They’re the distant evolutionary cousin of birds defined by a few unique characteristics, including the internal fertilization of their young and scales covering at least part of their bodies (via Britannica). Apart from these essential traits, reptiles are incredibly variable and can only be classified into a few large groups.
There are four major groups — called “orders” in biology — of reptiles. Crocodilia includes (you guessed it) crocodiles, as well as alligators, caimans, and gharials. The order Sphenodontia includes tuataras, a New Zealand–native species closely related to lizards (which, along with snakes, make up the order Squamata). The fourth and final order of reptiles is Testudines, which includes turtles, tortoises, and terrapins.
Sound like a lot! Don’t worry! While each order of reptile has its own unique characteristics and life journeys, they all follow the same basic life cycle. We’ll break it down for you here, so you’ll be a reptile expert in no time.
Although the specifics of a reptile’s life stages vary from species to species (and even by individual!), there are four main steps in the life cycle of most of these animals.
Typically, a reptile spends time developing as an egg at the beginning of its life, though a few species do give live birth. As an egg, an animal might be the only child at the time or might be part of a group, or “clutch,” of up to 100 eggs (via Brittanica). A fairly accurate theory is that smaller lizards tend to have smaller clutches, but body size isn’t the only factor in the number of eggs or neonates per litter.
As a hatchling, most reptiles are already abandoned by their parents. Of all reptiles, only crocodiles and their relatives care for their young. Some lizards and snakes guard their eggs (pythons even incubate them), but as soon as the eggs hatch, the mother moves on and the young are left to fend for themselves in the wild. This is one large reason why mortality rates are so high for most reptile young.
Juvenile reptiles are still easy targets for many predators, though the danger declines significantly as the babies grow. Britannica notes that research on reptile growth is limited, but most smaller species tend to do most of their maturing in the juvenile stage.
By the time they reach adulthood, they will have attained their full size. A few larger species, however, have indeterminate growth, which means that growth can occur in adulthood. While most of the animal’s energy will go toward reproduction, periods with bountiful food or a lack of mates might redirect energy and nutrition to further growth instead.
Once they reach adulthood, most reptiles have a much higher chance of survival in the wild. In fact, reptiles are known for being some of the longest-living species in the animal kingdom! Some species of Testudines have especially long lives; Guinness World Records awarded Jonathan the tortoise with the title of Oldest Living Land Animal (187 years!) in February 2019.
In general, Britannica claims, the larger the reptile the longer the life span. Compared with Jonathan the tortoise, box turtles don’t seem especially hardy, clocking in at around 30 years at their oldest. Large lizards, snakes, and crocodiles can live for over 20 years. Although these numbers have been recorded in captivity, these animals are larger than most people are willing to keep as a pet. The corn snake, a popular pet for a beginner reptile keeper, tends to live for an average of 10 years, for example. Here are the expected life spans for a few common pet reptiles, compliments of Merck Veterinary Manual:
Whether you’re on the verge of choosing reptiles as pets or you’d rather learn about them from a distance, they are fascinating creatures to research and observe. They’ll interact with you in ways other animals cannot, and, with some TLC throughout their lives, they’re sure to be around for a long time.
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